[Gimpilator]

I was talking to Petter and telling him how I wanted to go to Canada, but struggling to get people from WA interested. An annoying but regular problem. He offered to come all the way from Norway to join me for a month. I was elated. Despite being 71, Petter is one of the strongest people I hike with and there are still times when I cannot catch up to him. Seriously. He can go all day without eating, and somehow keeps a good attitude even under bad conditions, sort of the opposite of me. I’m not making this stuff up. August 5 Mount McInnes – 5545' We tried to drive to Stoyoma, but a critical bridge was washed out so McInnes was an on-the-fly backup idea. Plenty of wet brush and plenty of mosquitoes! 8-6 Mount Kerr – 7480' I suggested we detour north before the meat of the trip. Kerr has a trail to the ridge crest and is a pleasant hike through mostly open terrain the rest of the way. This is grizzly country, so bring your spray.

8-7 West Trophy Mountain – 8307' We followed the trail up through flower meadows to a lake which seems like a popular destination. Beyond the lake we opted for the high route, scrambling up to the southwest ridge of West Trophy. Petter was moving unusually slow and coughing, which made me concerned that he had caught a bug while traveling.

We went up the ridge to the first peak, with nice views overlooking Cwemcwem Lake and bigger peaks to the north in Wells Gray.

Trophy Mountain – 8455' The ridge between the peaks has a nice alpine feel. The crux scramble section is easily avoided by a gully around the south side. Petter’s condition was clearly deteriorating, but we still managed to pass a couple of guys, much younger than us. They suggested we descend the normal way past Cwemcwem. We did that for variety, but the ascent route was much better.

Trophy

Cwemcwem

Back in the car, I told Petter I thought he might be displaying signs of corona, which he vehemently denied, so I gave him a nasal test kit. While we were waiting the suggested 15 minutes for results, time seemed to slow down and I envisioned how the rest of the trip might go, two different ways. The results were positive. And we had been sharing a tent. We agreed to go stay with my family in Canoe, but to stay outside of their house and keep some distance. 8-8,9,10 Kicking corona virus in a tent during 90+ degree days, and with mild forest-fire smoke drifting in, was an interesting experience. One I will not forget. We must have done it right however, because nobody in my family contracted it.

family pad

8-11 Shuswap Mountain – 5663' After 3 days of rest, we were ready for something easy. Let the Subaru do the work. The road up Shushwap has been significantly improved on the lower section, since the last time I was there. Petter drove to the literal end and we had a very short hike. I was still in a bit of a daze. To get away from the smoke drifting around, we went to Vancouver Island.

summit tree house

8-12 Mount Spencer – 4770' Spencer is an unpleasant peak. Plenty of bushwhacking and some exposed sections which can be tricky depending on how you go. There’s a very short scramble section at the very end.

8-13 Mount Joan – 5105' I had invited a number of people from WA to join us on any day of the month. Dave was the only one to take the offer. The weather forecast said rain on other parts of the island, but not this eastern area. Wrong! We had consistent rain all day long, until the last few miles coming out. The dense brush concentrated the precipitation, saving it for us, and then as we passed by, it would let it all go at once. I wore my boots which are leak-proof. You can stand in a creek with them and no water comes inside, however they filled up from the top, to the ankles. I had to stop many times to pour the water out. I didn’t take any pictures. After the crappy bushwhack of the previous day, I couldn't help but think that Vancouver Island was hazing it’s new initiates, Petter and Dave. 8-14 Klitsa Mountain – 5377' Klitsa is a very pleasant hike. Some berries, some old-growth forest, and then a small lake. Above the lake the views open up and you can see many of the big peaks of the island.

slime mold

Near the top Dave and I followed the obvious trail higher until it ended at some exposed ledges. I backtracked to see if Petter’s choice of route might be better. There were a few exposed slab moves at the top of a gully, but not hard. On the way down, we all took a class 2 variation, further to the side.

8-15 Hkusam Mountain – 5482' This hike starts on an old road and then switches to trail near some cabins which are used during the annual race loop route. We hiked along a pleasant creek and then left the basin ascending next to a number of unnecessary fixed lines. Crossing a smaller creek, we then went up a chute to access the upper basin.

This area reminds me of Mount Constance. At the head of the basin we ascended a steep loose gully which was partially snow filled. Loose rocks required care and group strategy. Above the gully it was a short walk to the summit. No view of Waddington on this day.

8-16 Mount Romeo – 5456' I had noticed a prominent peak in the north part of the island which looked on satellite like it had a good road system going very near the summit. It was an easy sell to the group, and we went to investigate. As advertised, we were able to drive very high and make camp without much of the peak remaining. The next morning we ascended through a cut-block and then worked our way along the partially forested ridge to the summit. There was some light rain. Dave and I waited awhile to see if it would clear, but to no avail.

Abel

friends are better than a pot of gold

8-17 Victoria Peak – 7083' Victoria had been one of the main objectives of this trip and I was glad Dave was along to lead the crux section, so I wouldn’t have to. It was going to be another hot day, so we started early. The alpinglow along the ridge, as we passed tarns in the early morning, made for an enchanted feel. Black Victoria rose above it all, like a test of skill we had to confront. I knew there wouldn’t be any problem, because several of my friends have done it, and published good beta.

Victoria

We traversed a bench to find the steep snow downclimb. Super easy with crampons and axe. We then traversed two basins to find the hidden gully, steep but also very straightforward. Traversing some narrow ledges brought us to the bottom of the crux rock step. Purportedly class 4, Petter and I agree it was low 5th. There might be an easier line. I don’t know. Dave picked a fine line and it had a tough slabby move in the middle with a comitting big step out to the left.

upper route

hidden gully

ascending ramps

traverse to rock pitch

Dave leading

Petter at crux move

Above the rock step we continued up and left on class 2 and 3 with exposure. From the summit we have excellent views of Warden, Waddington, Golden Hinde, Sutton, and Rugged. A couple guys appeared on the other side of the summit. They had just climbed Sceptre, a 10 pitch route.

Elkhorn, Golden Hinde, Colonial Foster

Alston, Sutton

Sutton and Rugged

Victoria is a nice peak and one of the best I have done on the island. Highly recommend this one. On the way down, one of my new ropes took severe sheeth damage on the sharp rock. Now I have a 9 meter and 21 meter rope, instead of 30.

single rappel

[Gimpilator]

8-18 Mount Sutton – 6148' Petter was ready for a rest day. Neither of us was totally over the bug yet. Dave and I agreed to attempt Sutton which we had seen from Victoria. There wasn’t much info available, but using satellite maps I figured out how to drive close to it.

Sutton

To our delight, we found a flagged route going to Harrison Lake. From there it was sort of obvious that we needed to pass around the lake and then go up or around the snow gully to the col. I wanted to climb the snow, but Dave liked the slabs and I didn’t want to separate so I followed him. I had some trouble at the bottom near some waterfalls. The first thing I tried didn’t work and wasted some time. Eventually I ascended a rib right next to the falls.

Harrison Lake

The rest of the slabs were less exposed, depending on how much meandering you do. We climbed steep snow to reach the col. The west side of the peak is less steep, but still features cliffs. We ascended more snow and then found a key break in the cliffs to reach the upper north ridge.

key break

Williams' Lakes and Victoria

Rugged

Victoria

Watchtower

What a peak! Nearly the whole route was enjoyable and the view of Victoria, really something. Dave swam in Lake Harrison on the way down. One of the hottest days I’ve ever had in the mountains.

Dave gave me a belay coming down the waterfall crux

Dave swimming

8-19,20 Rugged Mountain – 5445' My hope for this peak was that we could do the glacier route, because the WFH route seemed pretty sketchy. We agreed to explore the glacier first and then default to the WFH if that didn’t work. I wanted to stay at the lower camp rather than carry a heavy pack to the col, over a bunch of rough terrain. I was outvoted by the guys and reacted in an immature way. As it turned out, they were right. Despite short distances this peak is rugged and the terrain very slow going.

abandoned south route

Rugged

WFH crosses the upper shaded face on ledges

After pitching camp at the col we crossed the glacier to inspect the moat. Dave reported that it was for all appearances bottomless, and uncross-able. We traversed further away from the peak and got onto the east ridge. At some point I noticed that there were thunderstorms not far away. They didn’t seem to be an immediate threat, but based on how the ridge looked, I doubted we had time for a real summit bid.

examining the moat

a new lake

east ridge

An hour later, with increasing rain and more thunder, Dave and Petter who had made it further along the ridge also came to the same conclusion. Not going to happen. While they had some difficulty retreating to the glacier, I rushed back to the col camp to get our stuff out of the rain. Trusting another flawless forecast, I had saved weight by leaving the rain fly in the car. Dumb.

here it comes

After the guys returned to camp, Dave found a cleft under a huge boulder and we all squeezed in there to stay dry during the heavy downpour. Petter finally admitted that this was real rain, but not a storm. Norwegians have a different definition of what is rain and what is a storm. Light-rain has a different name.

after the storm vibes

col camp

That night I dreamt we were on the ledge and lot’s of other people were doing it with simplicity. Quite pedestrian.

see Petter on the green ledge?

The next day, faced with the reality, I admitted to myself that I did not like the exposure factor and did not want to complete the route. I’ve done worse for peaks I really wanted, but this one was not worth it to me at the time. I turned around. No regrets. Please see Dave’s report for a more full description. Also note that the north route to gain the lower west ridge on day 1, is much preferable to the older and abandoned south route. Both are bad, but go the north way. 8-21 Rest day for Petter and I, while Dave went to Quadra Island for Seymour 8-22 Approach hike to Circlet Lake camp. Dave was restless and went to bag 3 bonus peaks.

8-23 Mount Albert Edward – 6867' The approach trail had been long with a lot of up and down, but this 2nd half of the route was more alpine and sort of nice. After the main peak, I went for one bonus peak which Dave had done the day before.

Albert Edward

a fire on Golden Hinde

Mount Frink – 6391' No trail, but also no difficulties. Back at the trailhead, we tried to convince Dave to stick with us but he said he had to go home to check and make sure the kids hadn’t burned the house down.

Frink

8-24 The Pinnacles – 8442' The illness combined with drifting smoke had forced us to abandon the two main objectives to the east on the mainland, but now it was looking clearer over there. Petter and I agreed to drive through the night for the best chances of a smoke-free day. Wind patterns are hard to predict. He took the lion’s share of the drive and for that I’m grateful. We camped at 3am and got back up around 6am.

The trail goes cleanly through a basin of dense brush and slide alder. Some berries presented for consumption. We crossed the creek and went up a rocky gully to circumvent headwall slabs. Above the slabs we came to the lower lake. No paths to be found beyond there.

We continued to the upper lake and had a view of the peak and remaining route. We ascended blocky slabs with some nice natural staircases. After turning a corner and crossing a small glacier we came back to the ridge-crest briefly. We traversed some steep dirt with minor exposure and came back to the crest once more. Petter stayed with it while I traversed left to find a steep loose gully.

west Pinnacles

Petter going direct

We met up in a notch on the ridge, below the final stretch. This time I traversed right on dirty ledges with piles of hailstones. We came to the summit simultaneously. This is another very nice peak, and one which should be considered if you are ever in the area. Petter really wanted this peak, having tried to access it once before, and I felt jubilee, that we could make it happen for him.

ultra #374 and 115

Petter didn't like my route

8-25 Mount Ingersoll, North Peak – 7277' Near Pinnacles, Ingersoll is an obvious objective. There are two summits of nearly equal height about 2 miles apart. We had to take two free ferries across Upper Arrow Lake, which is also the Columbia River. The terrain was pleasant with lots of flowers, berries, and bear sign. Petter measured the two summits with his GPS. Results were inconclusive, but the north peak might be higher.

ferry on demand

Pinnacles

Upper Saddle Mountain and Upper Arrow Lake

south peak and north peak

north summit

Mount Ingersoll - 7277'

south summit

8-26 Baldy Mountain – 7575' On the drive back to WA we stopped for a couple of short road hikes. I was able to drive behind the ski chalet town and reduce the amount of road-walking.

Apex Mountain – 7372' I drove through an open gate and prohibitive signage to again get closer to the peak. Upon return the gate was locked, but there was another road to the side with a wire cattle gate. After 30 seconds of uncertainty, problem solved and back on track!

Thanks Petter and Dave. A very memorable time, and the best summer I’ve had in several years.

[Roly Poly]

How many peaks in how many days?

[Gimpilator]

I thought I could get away with not counting, but let me check... 19 peaks in 18 days. This excludes the 3 days sick with covid, but does count the day we rested but were not sick.

[raising3hikers]

Good stuff, Adam. Nice to see some BC pk TR's.

[contour5]

Great TR!

[RichP]

A buddy has been trying to get me up to Vancouver Island for some peaks. I feel a bit more motivated to go there after seeing some them in your report.

[Matt Lemke]

Steven and I just missed you when we did Warden and Triple! Vancouver Island is a cool place I'll definitely be back to

[Fletcher]

Some amazing scenery from the island, I need to get up there!