Forum Index > Trip Reports > The Triad from Hidden Lake side.
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xuanxier
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xuanxier
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PostSat Oct 22, 2022 8:44 pm 
Full TR: http://stevensong.com/the-triad I decided to post it here briefly as this peak doesn't have much information but yet an impressive objective not far from Eldorado. Our reference was Franklin Bradshaw's 1-paragraph TR and another guy's GPX track (which oddly doesn't not come with a TR), both on peakbagger.com. These two reference together got all the information we needed to make a successful mission. Route similar to Doug's Direct that we just did a few weeks prior. Exposed ledges, steep grass, loose rocks, route-finding, adding in a glacier traverse on bare ice. Brought ice tool and steel crampons and they were used. East Ridge on Triad was mostly class 3-4 but on consequential terrain, also with steep grass. Used rope for two rappels. This peak seem to get more traffic judging by the cairns etc.

http://stevensong.com

SergioNapelo, Now I Fly, Tom, jared_j, SpookyKite89, bivouacjack, ozzy, raising3hikers, Kascadia, LukeHelgeson, olderthanIusedtobe, geyer, mosey
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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks



Joined: 13 Feb 2007
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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks
PostTue Oct 25, 2022 11:15 pm 
Wow, great to see that area with fall colors. In 2108 a few of us nwhikers walked out the ridge as far as was comfortable on a beautiful day. The Triad looked really difficult. I'm glad to see that we were right! It seems like a whole other climb starts where we turned around. Thanks for the detailed TR (at the link) Here's a photo from 2018
Sibley Ridge
Sibley Ridge

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cascadetraverser
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cascadetraverser
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PostWed Oct 26, 2022 7:08 am 
Nice; ya that path is cool; been to the bumps and always wanted to traverse below the Triad over to Eldorado and exit Cascade pass. The only tough part of that trip is around the Triad; did you look below to see easier routes around or it yours likely it?

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gb
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gb
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PostSun Oct 30, 2022 12:32 pm 
xuanxier wrote:
Full TR: http://stevensong.com/the-triad I decided to post it here briefly as this peak doesn't have much information but yet an impressive objective not far from Eldorado. Our reference was Franklin Bradshaw's 1-paragraph TR and another guy's GPX track (which oddly doesn't not come with a TR), both on peakbagger.com. These two reference together got all the information we needed to make a successful mission. Route similar to Doug's Direct that we just did a few weeks prior. Exposed ledges, steep grass, loose rocks, route-finding, adding in a glacier traverse on bare ice. Brought ice tool and steel crampons and they were used. East Ridge on Triad was mostly class 3-4 but on consequential terrain, also with steep grass. Used rope for two rappels. This peak seem to get more traffic judging by the cairns etc.
Interesting the teminology you used on your description "East Ridge on Triad was mostly class 3-4 but on consequential terrain, also with steep grass." which exactly matches my memory of that climb. A rope was of no value - although we downclimbed because there was really no protection. Just slab, grass, and heather. There are better climbs to do. On some climbs the Skagit Gneiss can be superb if bedded as a slab, but perhaps these are high enough not to be dominated by useless (for climbing) vegetation. My memory is from 1981 and we also climbed the moderate East Ridge of Dorado Needle and the superb route on Early Morning Spire. On a later trip we climbed the West Face of Eldorado - some spooky bits; and on another the Cauthorn route on Dorado Needle - excellent, and about 1 to 1-1/2 grades easier on average than Early Morning Spire.

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