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Gimpilator
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PostTue May 23, 2023 9:54 pm 
Very pleased to pass along some good news. My friend Steven Song has successfully climbed Mount Everest today. It was a bad season overall, with frequent difficult conditions and also some fatalities on the mountain. Very glad to know he's now out of the danger zone. Big congratulations! Maybe if we're lucky he'll post a report for us on NWH.

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PostWed May 24, 2023 6:20 am 
Any news from Eric and Matthew Gilbertson? I believe they were over there too.

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Gimpilator
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PostWed May 24, 2023 6:32 am 
Last I heard, Eric was waiting out the wind at South Col, but had to turn back. He was on a different schedule than Steven. I don't believe his brother is part of this trip.

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PostWed May 24, 2023 9:33 am 
I am glad Steven Song is healthy after that effort. Everest and similar peaks are on an entirely different level of risk. The Scott Fischer-Rob Hall episode pointed that out clearly. Guides have the capability with altitude experience to protect clients, but they don't have the physical abilities to protect their clients should things not go well. Rob Hall paid with his life, left his wife and child fatherless, and made the decision to remain with his client who could not in any fashion have been able to get down, with or without some level of minimal support. No human is strong enough to evacuate a disabled client at those altitudes and in those conditions. Yet Hall knew also that he could not have lived with a decision to have abandoned his client. Guiding in those situations is something I would have ever wanted to do. In guiding, when appropriate choices are made with respect to route and clients, guides can protect clients if no mistakes are made with a high degree of probability of safety. But not at high altitude. What Boukreev did was above and beyond in risking his own life to save a client. How certain was Boukreev that he could survive that rescue effort and how likely did he think that his efforts would be rewarded. Imagine being in Jon Krakauer's situation. He certainly had the climbing and mountaineering skills to have guided any of the clients but he did not have the experience - does anyone? - to know if he had the strength and could withstand the storm force to have made a difference. What an awful position to be in....

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Stefan
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PostWed May 24, 2023 10:43 am 
What? I had no idea Steven was even over there!

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SeanSullivan86
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PostThu May 25, 2023 10:11 am 
Eric posted on instagram that his high point was 8500m, he had some setbacks like dislocated shoulder and base camp sickness limiting his acclimatization, which proved too much since he was going without oxygen. But he seems to be off the mountain safely. Congrats to Steven !

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PostFri May 26, 2023 11:24 am 
Speaking of Everest, saw this in the news today: Garrett Madison, who owns the company Madison Mountaineering based in Seattle, has achieved the rare Mount Everest region "triple crown" feat of climbing the Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse peaks in one season. https://www.cnn.com/2023/05/26/sport/mountaineer-climbs-mount-everest-triple-crown-spt-intl/index.html

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