Forum Index > Trip Reports > West McMillan Spire, Mt. Degenhardt, Mt. Terror, 06/2-4/2023
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Alden Ryno
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Joined: 04 Jun 2019
Posts: 150 | TRs | Pics
Location: Issaquah, WA
Alden Ryno
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PostFri Jun 09, 2023 8:31 pm 
Admission: Prior to this trip, I had never been to the Pickets. The closest that I had been was the north peak of Stetattle Ridge (Mis-Wai-Khu) in March of 2022. The Pickets maintain a mythical status to mountain folks in and out of Washington. As many of you likely know, the Pickets are divided both physically and in our minds between north and south. With a (non-technical) traverse of the northern Pickets planned for July of this year, I was excited to try to get into the “easier-to-access” southern Pickets for some Top 200 peakbagging. A “Terror Mac” trip has been on my mind for a few years now, so when Rikki noted the splitter weather for the weekend, I knew that it was time for my first foray into the Pickets.
First views of the next day's terrain
First views of the next day's terrain
I largely used Beckey’s Cascade Alpine Guide to inform me, though there is a growing number of trip reports here and elsewhere on the web that were of great benefit. While others have spoken about these peaks, I’ll focus on the routes and the current conditions to not abuse your attention to this report. (note: I fail at this because I apparently cannot be succinct) Day 1 Work kicked off with a rocky start, so I was unsure if my (eventual) plan would work for an afternoon start on Friday. However, I put out the fire (that I started…) and set off to be at the NCNP Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount at 1230pm. I spewed my route plans with the issuing ranger and they issued a permit for two nights in the Terror Basin Cross Country Zone. Some skepticism existed due to the amount of snow that could slow travel. Not surprisingly, I was the only car at the Goodell Creek TH (600’). I began at 1:20 pm with hopes to camp above the trees. After a few miles, a pissed (mother?) grouse came hissing after me. What’s with me and aggressive birds in June?! Snow began around 5,000’ and I reached an “advanced” camp at the outlet to the lake below West McMillan Spire at 7:30 pm. While I could have continued, I had found a dry dirty camp and was unsure I’d find such accommodations higher.
Trail junction for the [b:112763685a]steeps[/b:112763685a]
Trail junction for the steeps
Mostly snow, some dry bits
Mostly snow, some dry bits
Barrier
Barrier
Col above standard Terror Basin Camp
Col above standard Terror Basin Camp
As I got ready for dinner, I realized that I had forgotten my cook cup, but did have my stove and fuel: a nice hand warmer? No warm food/fluids, unfortunately. The first time that this has happened to me. Hopefully, the last.
Product placement
Product placement
camp scene
camp scene
Strawberry
Strawberry
The big strawberry moon made it difficult to fall asleep. Day 2 West McMillan Spire This is a straightforward climb. I stowed gear and put my sleeping bag out to dry around 6,400’. Here, I donned crampons, helmet, and axe. They remained on for much of the day. Currently, snow reaches the 7,400’ col. The snow was very firm in the morning and I made it about 700’ up (7,100’) before I opted to hope onto a rock rib that led to the col due to the firm snow. Getting down the snow also took a while, but I took it down from the col. Ample face-in downclimbing due to the gradient. Once at the col, the route is simple. Just head east towards the summit. There only a handful of class 3 movements on the way and along the short traverse to the summit proper, which I reached a bit before 8 am.
Shukster
Shukster
Kulshan
Kulshan
View of couloir
View of couloir
Back at my gear, I repacked, ate, and set off up the Terror Glacier. The glacier is in great shape. A few sections of exposed ice exist along with a few visible cracks. There were only a couple noticeable sags in the snow that I could see anywhere. Thankfully, this is a relatively mellow glacier with a largely consistent slope. I aimed for the NW corner of the glacier around 7,400’ for The Barrier’s upper crossing.
Terror Glacier
Terror Glacier
I spy ledges. I wonder if it goes... mid-Barrier crossing?
I spy ledges. I wonder if it goes... mid-Barrier crossing?
The Barrier, Upper Crossing The first place I encountered the rock at the edge of the glacier had a moat. I looked to the right (N) and noticed that there was ample snow that abutted rock. It’d have to be quite late in the year or a terrible snow year for me to reasonably believe that a moat forms across the entire glacier.
glacier touches the rock
glacier touches the rock
ledge taken, turned right/up at some point when practical
ledge taken, turned right/up at some point when practical
more (grassy) ledges
more (grassy) ledges
rocks, go thattaway
rocks, go thattaway
My transition was simple with a lovely flat area to doff my crampons and stow my axe. Reports make the upper Barrier crossing seem like a one-shot wonder, but there are amples ways up that seem to eventually converge higher up. I encountered one (maybe) class 4 move. Most was easy rock hopping with class 3 (hands on rocks) interspersed. I passed two anchor stations? I also realized here that I had removed all my saved route info at this point... hehe. I had cleared images from my phone, which included my annotated notes. While it wasn't particularly required, I was glad that I had service so I could access my notes from Google Photos. Derp. While I didn’t plan to take the western route off of the Barrier, it looked like continuous steep snow down to the Crescent Creek Basin. I forgot to look for this feature when I made my traverse of the basin later in the day to confirm. I could see where people rap down this gully when it melts out later in the year. Seems akin to the Terror couloir (which we’ll get to).
route off the Barrier to Crescent Creek Basin
route off the Barrier to Crescent Creek Basin
Mount Degenhardt Note: would not recommend a carryover of Degenhardt with a loaded overnight pack. At the crest of the Barrier is where things began to warm up. I knew that a snow finger was involved. Despite that, I tried to find a non-snow route. Not feasible without scaling an overhung rock face. I donned the crampons and axe and went up about 50 feet. On the way, I noticed a dirty west trending ledge. At the top of the snow were two cracks. Both looked doable, but I was unsure of what was on the other side. I didn’t want to have to downclimb if I got cliffed out on either of them, so I backtracked to the dirty ledge (about 30’ up the snow from the Barrier crest). I doffed the crampons and began a walk of faith… what would I find?
One of the cracks I found went off to the right of this image (not up to the overhang). I should've gotten images of the cracks themselves
One of the cracks I found went off to the right of this image (not up to the overhang). I should've gotten images of the cracks themselves
dirty ledge I took. Felt quite secure
dirty ledge I took. Felt quite secure
Lo and behold, the terrains eased up considerably in all directions when I rounded the corner of the ledge. It was still steep and not the simplest, but far better than predominantly rock walls.
Open terrain after the ledge
Open terrain after the ledge
I made my way across the western side of Degenhardt and began to wrap around to the north. I was hoping that I would simply be able to traverse to the standard NW ridge, but there was a ravine. It was passable, but, again, I didn’t want to commit to a downclimb if I didn’t have to. So, up I went.
Standard route is RIGHT there, but there's a big drop between us
Standard route is RIGHT there, but there's a big drop between us
This was a bad choice. The SW ridge is a route on Degenhardt. While the climbing isn’t difficult, it is technical, and it is extremely exposed, as in overhung to that below. Still, the terrain was relatively easy so I kept making my way up. I came to a split: 1) Left: looked easy but had hanging exposure. 2) Up: looked more difficult. I went left first and got in a pickle. I would have had to make a move that I was so unsure about that my leg began to shake. Obviously a very, very dumb thing and I backed away immediately. The climb looked easy, but the holds simply weren’t where I thought/hoped that they would be when I got on it. I’m fortunate that I realized my mistake earlier and before anything happened. A fall here most likely would’ve been fatal. I feel foolish for going as far as I did and hope to not make similar errors in the future. This was the most unsafe that I have felt in the mountains.
Initially, I went on the left of this image, but began to be pushed out over too much exposure and too few good holds
Initially, I went on the left of this image, but began to be pushed out over too much exposure and too few good holds
this was part of the up option
this was part of the up option
last technical bit, about 10-15' tall
last technical bit, about 10-15' tall
I backed down about 15’ (horizontal) and went up, which had looked harder. It began more difficult but was not nearly as exposed and I could take my time in a comparably safe position. The up option ended up being much easier with much better/more natural holds. At the top of this (20-30’), I was on the ridge crest. I let out a sigh of relief because I could see the way to the summit proper and it eased considerably. There was one more crack to ascend but it was overcome with ease. Then it was a ledge traverse to the summit proper. While exposed in spots, very simple.
looking back at ridge crest from summit, I was able to drop below the crest proper to traverse
looking back at ridge crest from summit, I was able to drop below the crest proper to traverse
I sat on the summit for some time and calmed my nerves (12:15-12-45 pm). I knew the route down would be comparably simple. It’s all relative…
looking down at the first rap station on the NW ridge (standard) from the summit
looking down at the first rap station on the NW ridge (standard) from the summit
looking down first down pitch (second up pitch)
looking down first down pitch (second up pitch)
looking up the same pitch
looking up the same pitch
The NW ridge was short and sweet. Overall, the technical bits felt extremely solid. There were two “pitches.” Lower was an orange open book crack, upper was a white-ish face (with jug holds). I wish getting off the rest of Degenhardt were as easy as those. The boulder field has large, semi-mobile rocks. I aimed for 7,700’ notch in the ridge connecting Dege and Terror. Then, I transitioned to snow (back with crampons) and made a descending traverse to the couloir below Terror.
In retrospect, I should have simply taken snow all the way down instead of crossing several sections of rock and snow. It would’ve been faster, safer, and less distance traveled. I had a picture of this area from near the summit that I had taken but I didn’t view the image well enough to notice the continuous snow band down. Mount Terror There was a spectacular rock (that was once part of the higher mountain) near the base of the west couloir that I used as a sit spot and gear cache. I got my summit pack ready with food and gear, to include equipment for rappelling. The couloir ascent was straightforward, though I was on alert because of how much debris littered the snow, which reached to about 30’ below the col.
up the snow
up the snow
dirty gully
dirty gully
Initially, I dropped my sharps at the edge of the snow and scampered up the dirt to the col only to find that there was more snow. I foolheartedly believed that I wouldn’t need the sharps and attempted to find a route that didn’t need them. I reluctantly wandered back to my sharps and reascended to the col.
deadpan dirt to the col
deadpan dirt to the col
At the top of the col, I wrapped around to the right where two options presented themselves: 1) Left to a detached rock with a crack. There was tat at the bottom of the rock. a. This would require navigation of a moat with a sharp fin of snow. 2) Right up a steep but broad snow finger to a higher col. I took the left option first. An a cheval across the snow fin with some slamming from my axe adze to broaden the fin for my ass got me across the moat to the rock. I tried to find a way up this, but nothing felt solid… I backed to the snow and scooted back across.
looking back at the col. If I turned around here, I'd see the route options described
looking back at the col. If I turned around here, I'd see the route options described
right option (right in more ways than direction). I ascended the rock near the center of the image
right option (right in more ways than direction). I ascended the rock near the center of the image
The right option was easy snow. I ascended about 20 feet and got to the orange rock crack. Yet another rock to snow transition with some measures to assure my sharps didn’t fall down the snow or into the moat (snow cave that Trailcat Jim and Fay noted was too constricted for human access). The rock crack was great and eased after a half pitch or so to a sweet ledge/wedge system. Overall, the route was simple up, though it began to push me out to the right over some serious exposure. The ledge was primarily such that footing and comfort was good. One move around a bulging rock did give me some hesitation for the return trip. Simple trip up from there. For the downclimb around 7,900’, there was an erroneous cairn (I dropped a bit lower for class 3 boulder hopping). There was a bit of stiff scrambling up to the summit. This could’ve been due to the remaining snow, though there was a rap station somewhere along the way. The traverse to the summit was enjoyable and provided great exposure all around.
summit video
summit video
To Twin Needles and Picket Pass. Fury at right.
To Twin Needles and Picket Pass. Fury at right.
summit friend and snack
summit friend and snack
Reversal of the route was simple. The one awkward spot on the downclimb proved to be as awkward as I had figured it’d be. Fortunately, the holds were good. While I was thinking of rappelling, I was unsure if my 30 meter rope would be enough to get me to a safe spot. In truth, I’m simply more comfortable with downclimbing and was more fearful of getting to an awkward spot while rapping than while downclimbing. I’d rather not get to an awkward spot and attempt to maintain myself while coming off rappel. I was able to plunge step down most of the couloir with a short section of face-in downclimbing in my up steps.
up the couloir from below after my descent
up the couloir from below after my descent
The Traverse
Chopping Block
Chopping Block
onward to the snowy saddle
onward to the snowy saddle
Looking back at Terror and its col with the Rake
Looking back at Terror and its col with the Rake
traverse to West Peak looks cool
traverse to West Peak looks cool
The traverse across Crescent Creek Basin was tedious. Interestingly, this might be quicker without snow. In the evening after a hot, sun-filled day, there was much post-holing (6-8” each step) with the occasional knee/thigh-post. By the time that I made it to the col between the Barrier and the Chopping Block (Pinnacle Peak), my feet were frigid.
Degenhardt on the traverse. Couloir to the Upper Barrier crossing is obscured here
Degenhardt on the traverse. Couloir to the Upper Barrier crossing is obscured here
Terror & Dege
Terror & Dege
Yard sale to attempt to dry things some before the sun drops too low.
Yard sale to attempt to dry things some before the sun drops too low.
Thankfully, a dry spot presented itself and that’s where I made camp at 7:30 pm. My first order of business was shoe and sock removal to sun the dedos.
sunset from camp
sunset from camp
some pictures
some pictures
Neve Glacier & Snowfield. I had friends in thatarea
Neve Glacier & Snowfield. I had friends in thatarea
While there was ample time to drop lower, the entirety of Stump Hollow was shaded and I craved sun, despite having been in it all day.
dang (nearly) full moon is back again
dang (nearly) full moon is back again
positive of full moon is good night shots (without stars)
positive of full moon is good night shots (without stars)
Day 3 The outro was short compared to the second day, but nearly as long as the intro despite a drop of almost 6,000’ instead of an ascent of 6,000’. That should give you an idea of how great the approach is once past Terror Creek to Stump Hollow/Crescent Creek Basin. Nothing was terrible. The ridge drop was ok. From the ridge to the creek took a while. A great trail existed on the ridge and for the first 100’ of descent, then a downed tree blocked the path with no apparent trail thereafter… A mystery. I never rediscovered the climber’s path until 100-200’ above the creek. There were lots of forest cliffs to contend with along the way. I actually think that an ascent would be better than the (unknowingly) descent.
clouds before sunrise
clouds before sunrise
Lovely spot where I slept
Lovely spot where I slept
Pano on descent. Clouds slowly formed in the valley
Pano on descent. Clouds slowly formed in the valley
sun on Triumph
sun on Triumph
semi-typical forest terrain
semi-typical forest terrain
disregard my babble
disregard my babble
where the trail meets Terror Creek (note flagging, upperleft)
where the trail meets Terror Creek (note flagging, upperleft)
where I crossed the creek
where I crossed the creek
lovely trail
lovely trail
The trail comes to the creek at a raging rapid without an easy crossing. A mere 100 meters upstream, the creek broadens. This is where I forded the creek to the trail on the other side. I was able to follow a trail most of the way back to the true Goodell Creek Trail junction to complete the lollipop. I arrived at the car at 11:30 am, drove to Tacoma to get the dogs, then drove home to get to Issaquah around 4 pm. At 4:30, Rikki sent me an inReach message that she had fallen down a gully on Cosho. Thus began another adventure to get to her and Alex on the side of Cosho. But, that’s her story to tell… Here are teasers:
midnight-thirty at Easy Pass
midnight-thirty at Easy Pass
2am at Cosho Camp
2am at Cosho Camp
brought the sleeping bags, stove, and food. Sunrise on Logan
brought the sleeping bags, stove, and food. Sunrise on Logan
Heli coming in for Rikki (she's safe now), heading out with Alex
Heli coming in for Rikki (she's safe now), heading out with Alex
rest at Fisher Creek Camp before the climb back up to Easy Pass
rest at Fisher Creek Camp before the climb back up to Easy Pass
Fisher
Fisher
Watch stats: 26.2 miles, 13,500' gain.

Route Loser, wallorcrawl, MangyMarmot, Slim, jsb, Bramble_Scramble, Mesahchie Mark, SeanSullivan86, Nancyann, raising3hikers, contour5, zimmertr, Schroder, fffej50, ozzy, mike, brewermd, yukon222, jstern, Now I Fly, John Mac, neek, RossJames, Pef, Prosit, rubywrangler, Tom  awilsondc  KascadeFlat
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awilsondc
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awilsondc
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PostSat Jun 10, 2023 12:52 pm 
Incredible trip, Alden! Thanks for writing this up, it was a great read. up.gif up.gif

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trent
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Joined: 02 Oct 2006
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trent
Suffering fool
PostSat Jun 10, 2023 8:52 pm 
Nice work! The Pickets don't disappoint!

It's all downhill from here!
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John_B
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John_B
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PostSun Jun 11, 2023 8:53 am 
Great trip! Sorry to hear about the rescue afterwards but hopefully Rikki is doing alright.

Tom
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KascadeFlat
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Location: Eating peanut M&Ms under my blue tarp
KascadeFlat
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PostSun Jun 11, 2023 7:17 pm 
Absolutely stunning! This area has been on my list for a loooooong time.

For a good time call: 1-800-SLD-ALDR.
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nickmtn
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nickmtn
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PostMon Jun 12, 2023 7:50 am 
Alden Ryno wrote:
sun on Triumph
sun on Triumph
Great trip report. Those nice little sunlit peaks are Trapper and X. Fun to see such a popular view in reverse!

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Stefan
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Stefan
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PostMon Jun 12, 2023 9:07 am 
So after the Pickets...you went went immediately to help someone else out. Good man. Good man.

Art is an adventure.
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Forum Index > Trip Reports > West McMillan Spire, Mt. Degenhardt, Mt. Terror, 06/2-4/2023
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