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geyer Member
Joined: 23 May 2017 Posts: 463 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle |
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geyer
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Wed May 30, 2018 7:12 pm
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"Oh my god, I love my life."
A very content Eve blurted this out to no one in particular as she snuggled up in her zero degree bag perched at our 7900' wind-protected bivy site between the McAllister and Klawatti Glaciers. Mike and I laughed, both at Eve's total sincerity and her apparent lack of modesty. When we finally caught our breath and Eve's smug grin went away, that statement continued to resonate with me.
She's right... Just look at us, look where we are. Do you know how many people on this planet get to experience something like this? Do you know how many people even know something like this even exists?? How did we even get here...
The Inspiration Ski Traverse (sort of)
Dates: May 26-28, 2018
Distance: 19.8 miles
Accum. Elevation Gain: 11,260 ft
Total Humans Seen: fewer than you'd think
Rewind to the week before, while taking naps on the summit of Abernathy Peak, I recalled to Eve how my Memorial Day weekends the past two years had been pretty awesome, with a solo trip up Mount Adams in the howling wind in 2016, and seeing the northern lights do their thing while camped at Tank Lakes in 2017. I wanted to one-up these trips somehow.
Our initial goal was to go for the Dakobed Traverse (on skis), but the 6.5 hour drive between the White River Trailhead and the N Fork Sauk Trailhead was a bit daunting and I was having trouble getting Friday off to turn it into a 4-day trip. It wasn't until Thursday morning that Inspiration even came up. Planning was expedited and after a few quick reads of SummitPost, we were ready to go, along with Mike who was visiting his old homestead for the weekend.
Day 1: Eldorado TH to K-A Col
Distance: 7.0 miles
Elevation Gain: 6780'
Elevation Loss: 1090'
Humans Seen: 5+
After camping at the trailhead overnight, we got a decent start on the day. The goal was to hit Klawatti Peak and camp at either Klawatti Col or Klawatti-Austera Col. Right off the bat, Eve lost one of her ski poles to the log crossing. Uh-oh. Not a good sign. And then, due to other... unforeseen circumstances... we were not moving as fast as we had hoped. It wasn't even 8 AM and we already had to re-evaluate our weekend goals. We decided that we had to skip Klawatti and hope there was time for it later (spoiler alert: there wasn't. Or more accurately, there was, but we weren't prepared for the route options available).
First views Jo-burg Moody clouds at the Eldorado Glacier Mike for scale Hungry clouds eating the Inspiration Glacier Making our way past Eggplant
The clouds and wind were out in full force, especially near the Tepeh Towers, where we became completely engulfed. When we got to Klawatti, we took a look at it, and Eve noticed that the South route she intended to do already had a moat blocking it, despite 2-week old beta that said it was in. Ohhh well... Not like we had time for it anymore, anyways Klawatti's supposed "class 3" route baffled us the rest of the weekend. Where was this hidden treasure? Perhaps it was on the SE ridge, which was the only side hidden from us all weekend. Otherwise, nearly every other face looked chossy and vertical with moats obscuring potential entry points
22°halo (correction by Brushbuffalo) Forbidden views No views/best views there be rocks o'er yonder Out of the cloud for now Personal favorite picture Approaching Klawatti Col scenic much? classic ski tip shot how'd this color photo get in here? Eldo peaking out last views of forbidden for a bit dark vibes
The last stretch of the day led us from K Col to K-A Col, where the snow was complete mush and the skinning was slightly frightening given the runout. Just as we were told, the K-A Col had a huge (and growing) moat, with a 30 foot snow wall. Given the wind, the choice was obvious to set up camp inside the moat. It was spacious and very private, but also strangely unique. Camping in your own little snow and rock pocket, 7900' above sea level.
day's final traverse over to K-A Col our guardian scottish terrier watchdog There are people in this picture! I'd frame this Sunset views runnels Col Pano Our home for the weekend
Day 2: Austera & Primus
Distance: 6.4 miles
Elevation Gain: 3700'
Elevation Loss: 3700'
Humans Seen: 0
After Mike broke his only water bottle and I broke my second pack strap in two weeks on day 1, the tables started to turn for us on day 2 as we awoke to a magnificent inversion layer sunrise. DO YOU KNOW HOW LONG I HAVE DREAMT OF THIS??? HOLY COW MY FIRST INVERSION SUNRISE FROM THE ALPINE!!!
Waking up to this was a treat INVERSION!!! Colors!! Baker whoa
Our first stop of the day was Austera Peak, the skinning to the ridge was easy, but summit post's description led us to believe that we would need some pro for the climb up. Turns out that in spring, an ice axe is plenty of assurance, but since we had lugged a small rack and a climbing rope, we felt silly not to use them. Safety first, y'all
Starting over to Austera Eve - always a mile ahead Mike working for it Mike and the Klawatti Glacier The whole team here
There was a short scramble up to the main ridge from the south, where we quickly reached a false summit. We then had to shimmy our way over to a gap between the false summit and main summit. This gap had a finger of snow that essentially let you walk across. Eve led across the snow on belay and I soon followed (off belay) It was a little icy, so I won't lie - having that rope as a hand-line felt nice. The summit of Austera is one of - if not thee - coolest peak I have ever been to.
Mike chilling on the ridge Damn, Primus, I want to ski all of you summit shot the final steps the boss-lady summit pano facing south Eve regaining the false summit Klawatti glacier
The skiing down was absolutely fantastic. Corn and views for days.
Time to put those skis back on! Well-earned turns Eve Mike Mike + Eve
The way down past the Austera Towers brought us to 6760' - a nearly 1500' ski run! At the base of the towers is what I would call one of three places that were sketchy for skinning, especially with the mushier snow. (The other location was at around 7800' coming around the Tepeh towers towards Klawatti Col from the south.) We all ended up booting this part to and from the North Klawatti Glacier. Once we got to the glacier, things mellowed out - big time. This glacier is extremely flat, and the home of a glacier monitoring station. Skinning to the summit was easy-peasy switchbacking, the views from the top were primo, and the skiing back down was as good as we could have asked for. Another 1300'+ ski run to cap the day!
The North Klawatti Glacier feels huge Up we go Up we go The little black speck on the glacier is our gear yard sale More summit naps Eldorado Klawatti Buckner Goode Austera Ridge Getting those turns again Eve looking legit Mike for scale Turns
On the way back to camp, we noticed more glacier worms everywhere. Eve and I freaked out a little since we hadn't seen them since our Glacier Peak trip.
Glacier Worms! This view does not get old Return to camp
When we made it back to camp, I decided this would be the night I got up for astrophotography. Conditions weren't exactly prime, given the near-full moon and howling wind, but how many other people have a picture of star trails above the McAllister Glacier?? My only regret is not braving the wind for longer than the 20 minute star trail stack.
Moon shining over our moat Big Dipper/Little Dipper Wish I had more patience for better star trails
Day 3: K-A Col to TH
Distance: 6.4 miles
Elevation Gain: 780'
Elevation Loss: 6420'
Humans Seen: 7
The next morning, we again woke up to a cloud inversion sunrise, but the wind had picked up so much that none of us were in the mood to stick around for it. We hauled ass out of camp and started the trek back to the trailhead. The clouds around Forbidden were absolutely stunning. The only downside was that it mean skiing down was going to be in the clouds. It didn't matter much to me, because everything on skis seemed to be clicking for me this weekend, but the kick-step queen (Eve) preferred to boot it.
Final morning inversion Inversion pano back to Klawatti Col Eve + Eldo Forbidden being bashful The struggle is real, the views make up for it some crevasses opening Aggressive kick-steps or Where the Wild Things Are pose? Towers Last one. seriously James + Brady (?) on the summit of Eldorado OK just kidding this is the last Forbidden pic Apporaching eggplant Skiing down in the cloud
Takeaways:
- Ski crampons are da bomb
- Ski straps are nearly impossible not to lose
- Inversion sunrises are just as amazing as I'd imagined
- When things aren't going according to plan, adjust your expectations and enjoy the ride
Sidenote: McAllister Camp bridge washed out in 2017, which is why we didn't do the full traverse... although I hear that Lucky Ridge bushwack is nice and fun
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awilsondc Member
Joined: 03 Apr 2016 Posts: 1324 | TRs | Pics
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Pretty cool man! I love your trip reports, keep it up! I need to do this some day. Just... so cool!
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geyer Member
Joined: 23 May 2017 Posts: 463 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle |
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geyer
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Wed May 30, 2018 7:36 pm
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Jeff wrote: | Why did you guys carry your skis so much? We were able to skin the whole thing once we found snow in the boulder field. |
I only carried around that turn to Primus. Definitely a no-fall zone... The rest of the time, Eve & Mike were carrying because it was a hard crust, whereas I had ski crampons doing all the work. I think I convinced them to buy ski crampons based on how easy it was for me haha.
We also didn't rope up! Easy to avoid anything remotely open
Also, day 3 was mush. Skiing back to the boulder field was a quad burner
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Jake Robinson Member
Joined: 02 Aug 2016 Posts: 521 | TRs | Pics
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awilsondc wrote: | I love your trip reports, keep it up! |
I second that! I always appreciate the humility, storytelling, and great photography in your reports.
The first paragraph really resonated with me...I often have a similar reaction when I'm in the mountains. What a privilege it is to be able to experience all these wonderful places.
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chandlerhaberlack chandler haberlack
Joined: 29 May 2018 Posts: 26 | TRs | Pics Location: Monroe |
Wow some of the best spring north cascade pictures I've seen. This is awesome!
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Bootpathguy Member
Joined: 18 Jun 2015 Posts: 1791 | TRs | Pics Location: United States |
Splendid TR
and
Bingo!!!
geyer wrote: | Just look at us, look where we are. Do you know how many people on this planet get to experience something like this? Do you know how many people even know something like this even exists?? How did we even get here... |
Countless times I've thought exactly that.
Let me add. Once I've arrived at my backcountry location, I think to myself, "just 6 hours ago I was taking my last sip of morning coffee in my kitchen. No airports, airline tickets, nor standing in line to get here. Oh how I love Washington State"
When I get home, sometimes it feels like it was a dream when I think back to where I was just a few hours ago. So close, but yet so far away. Such a contrast. From serenity to chaos.
I once wrote in a trip report...
"I always wonder to myself, "what's happening here when nobody is around". "What am I missing when I'm not here" I'm sure it's wonderful displays of nature and wildlife that nobody will ever get to witness. Isn't this the mystery that keeps us returning to the backcountry? Just hoping we are lucky enough to be in the right place at the right to experience it, whatever it may be"
Brad, your Aurora shots from the Necklace Valley are a perfect example of what I'm referring, and I'll assume it's things like that, that beckons your return
Thanks again for sharing such a wonderful adventure
Experience is what'cha get, when you get what'cha don't want
Experience is what'cha get, when you get what'cha don't want
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Matt Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
Joined: 30 Jan 2007 Posts: 4308 | TRs | Pics Location: Shoreline |
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Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
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Wed May 30, 2018 10:09 pm
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geyer wrote: | "Oh my god, I love my life." A very content Eve blurted this out to no one in particular as she snuggled up in her zero degree bag perched at our 7900' wind-protected bivy site between the McAllister and Klawatti Glaciers. Mike and I laughed, both at Eve's total sincerity and her apparent lack of modesty. When we finally caught our breath and Eve's smug grin went away, that statement continued to resonate with me. She's right... Just look at us, look where we are. Do you know how many people on this planet get to experience something like this? Do you know how many people even know something like this even exists?? How did we even get here... |
Great quote and a great trip.
“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
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mbravenboer Member
Joined: 20 Oct 2013 Posts: 1422 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle |
Those photos are truly wonderful. Great job!
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wildernessed viewbagger
Joined: 31 Oct 2004 Posts: 9275 | TRs | Pics Location: Wenatchee |
Awesome!
Living in the Anthropocene
Living in the Anthropocene
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Brushbuffalo Member
Joined: 17 Sep 2015 Posts: 1887 | TRs | Pics Location: there earlier, here now, somewhere later... Bellingham in between |
Amazing photos and awesome story telling. Love it!!
But leave it to Professor Doug to make a tiny clarification. This pic shows a 22°halo, not a sundog ( parhelion).
geyer wrote: | 22°halo (correction by Brushbuffalo) |
The two phenomena often occur together, so the dogs may have been evident laterally on the halo.
Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
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fourteen410 Member
Joined: 23 May 2008 Posts: 2631 | TRs | Pics
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Dreamy
geyer wrote: | Just look at us, look where we are. Do you know how many people on this planet get to experience something like this? Do you know how many people even know something like this even exists?? |
I think the same thing every weekend. We're a lucky bunch.
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Get Out and Go Member
Joined: 13 Nov 2004 Posts: 2130 | TRs | Pics Location: Leavenworth |
Quote: | Just look at us, look where we are. Do you know how many people on this planet get to experience something like this? Do you know how many people even know something like this even exists?? How did we even get here... |
I think we need more of this perspective in our everyday lives. Optimism, appreciation, inspiration, mindfulness...whatever it is. I experience a similar feeling when I'm surrounded by the authenticity of first grade students. It's a big mountain we've climbed. (Pardon the waxing poetic. )
More to the point, what a fabulous trip and photos.
"These are the places you will find me hiding'...These are the places I will always go."
(Down in the Valley by The Head and The Heart)
"Sometimes you're happy. Sometimes you cry.
Half of me is ocean. Half of me is sky."
(Thanks, Tom Petty)
"These are the places you will find me hiding'...These are the places I will always go."
(Down in the Valley by The Head and The Heart)
"Sometimes you're happy. Sometimes you cry.
Half of me is ocean. Half of me is sky."
(Thanks, Tom Petty)
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rbuzby Attention Surplus
Joined: 24 Feb 2009 Posts: 1013 | TRs | Pics
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rbuzby
Attention Surplus
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Thu May 31, 2018 3:24 pm
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Get Out and Go wrote: | Just look at us, look where we are. Do you know how many people on this planet get to experience something like this? Do you know how many people even know something like this even exists?? How did we even get here... |
Was it the lady from "Have Tent Will Travel" who said that? I think that is the name of her blog. It's fun to read about things from the perspective of a recent transplant.
The answer to #1 and #2 is "A lot more people than you think."
And isn't that how the wilderness is supposed to be? You feel like you are in a place that people seldom visit, because it still looks pristine and wild, thanks to previous visitors not leaving any trace. Each new group of converts to the Cascade religion feels like they are among the first to explore the region, right on the heels of the pioneers and first ascenders. It doesn't look like thousands of people have been there before you, it looks like you might be the first. That's the Wilderness experience.
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Brushbuffalo Member
Joined: 17 Sep 2015 Posts: 1887 | TRs | Pics Location: there earlier, here now, somewhere later... Bellingham in between |
rbuzby wrote: | It doesn't look like thousands of people have been there before you, it looks like you might be the first. That's the Wilderness experience. |
Very nicely stated.
Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
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geyer Member
Joined: 23 May 2017 Posts: 463 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle |
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geyer
Member
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Thu May 31, 2018 5:45 pm
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Thanks everyone for the responses! I was really hoping to get some reactions from the lot of you out of that first paragraph. And by the looks of it, it worked.
Especially appreciate Jake and Bootpathguy's responses. It's a bit overwhelming to think that at any place and any time, there could be something absolutely majestic happening and nobody out there to witness it. Might as well get out to wherever makes you happy as much as possible.
Get Out and Go wrote: | I think we need more of this perspective in our everyday lives. Optimism, appreciation, inspiration, mindfulness...whatever it is. |
Exactly. My first thought was, "who says that out loud?!" and then immediately after, I had the contradictory thought, "why don't more people say that out loud?" Sometimes it feels like we have to downplay our own happiness/optimism/appreciation because people will think something is wrong with you if you don't.
rbuzby wrote: | Was it the lady from "Have Tent Will Travel" who said that? I think that is the name of her blog. It's fun to read about things from the perspective of a recent transplant.
The answer to #1 and #2 is "A lot more people than you think." |
Yes that was Eve, who writes the Have Tent, Will Travel blog saying "oh my god, I love my life."
The part in italics was my thoughts. No doubt there have been hundreds or even thousands of people to visit a specific place before us and they have absolutely helped future generations to choose which areas they want to explore. Interesting that you relate this notion to being a recent transplant, as I know multitudes of people who have lived near the cascades their entire lives and have never set foot anywhere other than a ski resort. I'm not sure their reaction would be quite so different if they were introduced to mountaineering (or even on-trail hiking) at an older age. Would you agree? Either way, your description of the Wilderness experience is a good way of describing this feeling.
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