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Fletcher Member
Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Posts: 1870 | TRs | Pics Location: kirkland |
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Fletcher
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Sun Jan 30, 2022 3:30 pm
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For the last day of the high pressure, we decided to go for a winter ascent of Sefrit from the north. After many times feeling very doubtful that we would be successful in making the summit, we were able to pull it off. After just over 4 miles of road walking down Hannegan Pass Road, Eric, Dave, Selena, Damon, Cole, PeeWee, and I made our way down to Ruth Creek right across from the "Wall Street" gully that grants access to Sefrit's NW glacier. PeeWee and Dave were able to find some rocks to cross on; while the rest of us forded the knee deep waters. Eric slipped on a rock and fell in the creek, soaking himself and most of his belongings!
some nice morning color the route above looking for a crossing climbing towards Wall Street
After crossing the creek and drying off, we climbed several hundred feet of partially snow covered alder, to a large area of avalanche debris that had come down the gully in the last bad avy cycle. This slide must have been massive and impressively wet and heavy. We made our way up through beach ball sized chunks of refrozen snow which made footing a little tricky. Eventually the hidden entrance to Wall Street game into view. What an awesome route. The gully weaves back and forth up the mountain with steep walls on both sides. We had really nice cramponing conditions with one particularly icy and steep step that took some care.
heading up Wall Street the icy step the icy step exiting Wall Street
Around 5,000 feet, the gully opens up into an impressive basin where we stopped to take a quick break. After that we trudged our way up the glacier with expanding views to the north. Around 6400 feet our couloir that would take us up toward the summit came into view. It looked impossibly steep. We dropped some gear here and harnessed up. Eric and Dave were first to start up the gully, with the rest of us following.
awesome basin slogging heading up the couloir Selena, Damon, and Cole Chilliwacks coming into view getting steep steeper
This couloir is steep, very steep. We all agreed afterward that its probably the steepest snow that any of us have ever climbed. At the top, we all had to traverse out to the left to get around a cornice. The exposure right here was extreme. I was third to top out, much relieved to be in a decently comfortable spot. Dave and Eric built an anchor and threw a rope down to give the other guys a belay up the final and steepest bit to the top.
PeeWee topping out looking back down to Selena
The route above the notch looked imposing but doable. As Eric and Dave were getting the final three up past the cornice, PeeWee set out to check it out. One tricky move getting out of the notch and we found some fairly comfortable climbing for 100 feet or so up a rocky rib. This rib finally lead us to the summit ridge, which was heavily corniced. We considered roping up a few times, but nothing looked good to get us up what I believed was the summit. As PeeWee and I were considering turning around and returning to the notch, Eric found a lower traverse and worked his way around a rib. It was exposed with bad runout. The super variable snow surface was sketching me out and I was strongly considering turning around again. Here, PeeWee followed Eric around the rib and out of sight. I wasnt going to let him summit without me and hold that over my head for the rest of my life so I followed. As I crossed the rib, I found that the terrain really eased up and yelled back to Dave and Cole that they should follow. I also realized that the summit overhead was false and the true summit was still a short distance along the ridge and Eric was on the summit block just a few feet away from Sefrit Glory! The wind had really picked up since we'd topped out of the couloir making it super miserable. Every gust of wind would blow snow into our eyes, temporarily blinding us.
PeeWee climbing above the notch finally, the summit!
The problem now was that this side of the summit block was 5th class with incredible exposure to the north. Eric backed off and we decided to try it again with a belay. I volunteered to lead, racked up, and began making my way up, placing a couple pieces of pro. I managed to climb to within 10 feet of the summit until the climbing got difficult enough for me to not want to make any more moves without finding more bomber pro, which did not exist. Feeling truly defeated, mere feet from the summit, I climbed back down as Eric decided to try to find a lower traverse to get us to the other side of the summit block. As the rest of began to pack up the rope and retreat, Eric's head popped up from the summit!! His route worked. We all worked our way down and around and after one last icy step, we took turns making a few exposed class 3 moves to the summit of Sefrit, very thankful for Eric's bold route finding.
PeeWee and I on the summit Shuksan Baker with incoming weather Tomyhoi, Border Peaks, Larrabe, and Slesse Pickets Blum Chilliwacks Nooksack Tower detail Dave got it Cole on the summit
No time for a break with the horrible wind, we all gingerly made our way back down to the notch in the blowing wind. I would periodically have to stop and let a gust pass as the blowing snow required me to close my eyes. At the notch, as we all felt as if we might freeze to death, Eric flaked our ropes as I set a deadman for our rap. I then quickly set up my rap and made my way over the lip and into the abyss. The 60m rappel ended in a precarious spot in the couloir so I immediately began down-climbing as Damon rapped down after me. That was definitely the steepest down climb I have ever done. Luckily snow conditions were ideal.
trying to stay warm the crew coming down incoming weather
It was frigid in the basin, so we continued the descent as soon as we all regrouped. We were all relieved to have reached relative safety. The snow was still firm in Wall Street, but not steep enough to require facing in other than for really brief steps.
heading down the glacier entering Wall Street such a cool route back at the icy step the final obstacle
We all regrouped one final time back at the Ruth Creek ford at dusk, which felt good on the feet that I have been abusing in firm boots and crampons all day. Back at the road, we slogged the 4ish miles out to the cars as it began to sprinkle. The beers that were waiting for us felt well earned.
~14 miles
~5200 ft of gain
~13:11 car to car
~WA P1K 200/783
mossbackmax, Fred Beavon, Gimpilator, Now I Fly, Cyclopath, Eric Gilbertson, belowfellow, zimmertr, neek, reststep, Tom, fourteen410, Brushbuffalo, Nancyann, MangyMarmot, RichP, ONELUV1 rstoddard24
mossbackmax, Fred Beavon, Gimpilator, Now I Fly, Cyclopath, Eric Gilbertson, belowfellow, zimmertr, neek, reststep, Tom, fourteen410, Brushbuffalo, Nancyann, MangyMarmot, RichP, ONELUV1 rstoddard24
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raising3hikers Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2007 Posts: 2344 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, Wa |
Oh wow, what a trip that was. It might have been the best and most challenging winter summit I've been on. btw, it's also the steepest snow I've ever climbed, much steeper than Lincoln Pk. I'm so glad I had an available day to join on this trip with the last day of low avalanche danger. My little dip in Ruth Creek was just the beginning of the challenges we were all about to enter. Glad Kyle took a pic of me in the water, hope he posts it
The Wall Street route is a 20' wide hidden gully not seen until right by it that reaches to the upper basin. I don't think it would be a viable route once the snow melts, it would be a flowing creek with many little waterfalls.
the crew hiking up wall street the goat mtn pks
Our gully route to the ridge was definitely steep but the snow was very good, I felt bad about snow falling down on others while kicking steps but it couldn't be avoided. A cornice provided an obstacle but a short, exposed, climbers left traverse provided access to the ridge. It was good to have everyone up there, that was victory in itself
our steep gully chilliwacks the crew heading up the steep gully Selena gaining the ridge
Somehow, we were sheltered from the wind in the basin but the wind was absolutely whipping on the ridge. Things were extremely cold, Dave did an awesome job belaying the remaining climbers. There were some false summits that we were unaware of but if we keep poking around enough, we'll find a way.
Fletcher and Kyle
The wind felt like being sand blasted but we kept going trying every way possible. It was a hard earned summit but felt so good to get it.
Ruth and Icy
The double rope rappel was long but left for more steep down climbing, at least it was not as steep as the upper slopes. It was a relief to gather with everyone below the gully as we gathered our gear to get back down wall street before it got too dark.
Selena on rappel
thanks for the awesome trip!
Eric Eames
Cyclopath, rstoddard24, reststep, Nancyann, Brushbuffalo, ONELUV1, RichP
Eric Eames
Cyclopath, rstoddard24, reststep, Nancyann, Brushbuffalo, ONELUV1, RichP
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awilsondc Member
Joined: 03 Apr 2016 Posts: 1324 | TRs | Pics
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Y'all are a bunch of bad asses! I'm surprised to hear the snow was steeper than Lincoln! Nice job lady and gentlemen!
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Brushbuffalo Member
Joined: 17 Sep 2015 Posts: 1887 | TRs | Pics Location: there earlier, here now, somewhere later... Bellingham in between |
Fine climb! You folks had super steep snow up high but
indeed, the lower approach gully gets really ugly by late spring's melt. In the mid 1970s around Memorial Day our party of two was very intimidated by the gaping holes. To fall in would not end well. It may have been the crux of our climb but since we got stormed off in the upper basin we'll never know.
In1967 I had summited Sefrit by a different, easier route in summer. We put up a hammock just below the summit just for fun, and a picture of it is in Geology of the North Cascades ( plate 8-C, opposite page 65).
Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
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iron Member
Joined: 10 Aug 2008 Posts: 6392 | TRs | Pics Location: southeast kootenays |
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iron
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Mon Jan 31, 2022 12:10 am
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dang. i wouldn't want to go in ruth creek 'cept for on a 90 degree day in august. were you wet the whole day? that summit must've been miserable.
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Stefan Member
Joined: 17 Dec 2001 Posts: 5094 | TRs | Pics
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Stefan
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Mon Jan 31, 2022 4:06 am
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wow. I don't remember the water running like that! I remember snow bridges over the water. Sorry you had to get wet Eric....and then in the wind at the top. Wow. You musta been cold.
Cool all you made it up! That is great!
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Mike Collins Member
Joined: 18 Dec 2001 Posts: 3100 | TRs | Pics
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Congratulations with your success on this lonely peak. Dave C. And I were successful with a much more user friendly approach route from Hannegan Pass and exit via a Ruth Creek ford. No rope used but plenty of snow on our May outing. The crux of our climb was actually our fording of Ruth Creek. It was an upper-thigh torrent. We thought we would have to wait until the night to cross.
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Nancyann Member
Joined: 28 Jul 2013 Posts: 2323 | TRs | Pics Location: Sultan Basin |
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Nancyann
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Mon Jan 31, 2022 11:38 am
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I love the video! Congratulations to each one of you!
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MangyMarmot Member
Joined: 06 Apr 2012 Posts: 474 | TRs | Pics
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What an awesome trip. Great team of people to be with. Here are some of my photos.
Fording the creek Below Wall Street Wall Street Goat Mountain Heading up the glacier Goat, the border peaks and Larabee Chillawacks Ridge above the gully Climbing the summit block Looking North-East Shuksan
Nancyann, Eric Gilbertson, rstoddard24, reststep, RichP
Nancyann, Eric Gilbertson, rstoddard24, reststep, RichP
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brianhill__ Member
Joined: 13 Jul 2020 Posts: 3 | TRs | Pics
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A lot of interesting things got sent in the past week. This one is impressive! Cool video too. Out here inspiring people y'all.
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rstoddard24 BBQWingz
Joined: 30 Dec 2016 Posts: 74 | TRs | Pics
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Strong work all! Looks like a wild adventure. And awesome video Fletcher I really enjoyed
Would like to explore this zone someday. I am curious to hear your reasons to go via Ruth creek side. I saw a TR from some skiers who got it via Nooksack cirque side a few days prior and they seemed to have fewer challenges
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raising3hikers Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2007 Posts: 2344 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, Wa |
rstoddard24 wrote: | I saw a TR from some skiers who got it via Nooksack cirque side a few days prior and they seemed to have fewer challenges |
we didn't see that ski TR until after our trip, if we had, we may have considered doing it that way. in my opinion on doing the route we chose, i thought ruth creek might have been covered with avy debris like stefan had in his successful trip a decade ago. also, minimal to no bushwhacking and an efficient, direct route looked like the best route to us. although the gully to the ridge was much, much steeper than we anticipated, if was a fun and very challenging climb in bomber conditions.
i just saw a TR, for the same wall street route attempt on cascade climbers, looks like they tried a week before we did it. i guess many were eying the mighty sefrit.
Eric Eames
rstoddard24
Eric Eames
rstoddard24
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