[Larry]

It was wonderful on this sunny Fall day to get back to his small area that is the culmination of the hydrographic apex between the Humptulips and Wynoochee River systems. Prior to the huge logging terracide of the late 70’s, this pristine area was much larger in scope. This wonderful remnant provides an introspective into the serenity and remoteness here that will never be seen again by mankind. I thought hard about, and then decided to submit a trip report, as this general area is pretty much shattered for pristine terrain by the effects of logging. I think that whoever might follow on this report will be already a person who realizes the significance of this type of little treasure. I also feel that this area is already churned up by elk -- human tracks won't be doing damage here. And finally, this is not the only little patch of wilderness in this obviously impacted general area. A little work with a map will show that there are many of these pygmy basins scattered throughout the watersheds. Gramps and I often visited the area in the late 50s, when I was a panting, sweating, pre-teen greenhorn to the meadows. Of course the meadowed basins were then much larger in scope, and the entry was more difficult due to roads ending farther down in the valley. The relatively short drive from Montesano allowed us to take some forays after school, and sometimes even during school, when I would become ‘sick’ as a result of his exploration fever. I remember clearly listening to Gramps rave about finding what he figured was the “most southwesterly true subalpine meadow system on the peninsula.” He was always so darned enthused about these kinds of little revelations that I couldn’t help but pick up on his excitement myself... Drive the West Fork Humptulips Road past Campbell Tree Grove campground about seven miles. Stay on the main road as it climbs and nearly doubles back on itself in the upper reaches of the drainage. Near the end, you will look up and left to see the impressive reddish peak of Point 4192 poking above the silver firs. Continue about one mile past the spur road that branches off to the right, to finally park at the left-turn hairpin bend in the road at an obvious divide. You will now be in position to follow the superb northeast-trending hogsback to the ridge overlooking the East Fork Humptulips basin. From the semi-open and easy ridgetop, drop east (right), traversing diagonally down into the main drainage. The basin abounds with pocket meadows, flowers, and Pacific Silver Firs bearded with staghorn lichen. You will soon encounter larger meadows with true subalpine floral displays! Roam northward in an arc around the headwaters, flitting from one pocket meadow to another, gradually climbing to the south ridge of Point 4192. This wonderful ridgeline climbs through pockets of basalt flower gardens interspersed with dense thickets of silver fir, mountain hemlock, and huckleberry. There are frilly recesses of rock-loving wildflowers, lichens, and mosses. Here and there you will encounter those pincushion types of plants that are typical of harsher conditions. The view into the West Fork Wynoochee is green, even though the farther hills are pockmarked with clearcuts. The tricouni ridge of the summit is a red basalt perch that looks out over many miles of logging shows. This rather depressing sight is countered by the locally beautiful untouched terrain at your feet. Drop off the summit to follow the very obvious northwest ridge. You will pass interesting rock towers and a few little ponds. Just past the obvious tower towards the end of the rocky ridge, work your way slightly right (north) and off the ridge. Pull off a descending traverse into the beautiful basin of the West Fork Humptulips. This miniature tilted arena is a dreamland of aquatic splendor and subalpine grace -- an Arcadian paradise of verdant green, sprinkled with spritely and spongy alps. The outrageous feeling of pristine grandeur hearkens to what I feel is the true core of the Olympic experience. The word ‘arena’ comes to mind because of the beautiful arc of forest that forms the upper boundary of the bowl. Enhancing this aspect are the small, level-floored mini-meadows adorning neo-glacial sinks and erosional eskers. Precipitation plays a double-edged game here, pumping out enormous amounts of fluid to incubate the stellar forest growth. Conversely, that same volume provides heavy snow in the winter, thus enabling the subtle and inexorable carving of miniature meadowed openings by snow-creeping and avalanching. The petite brooks sputter and splatter with foamy little waterfalls. Numerous small ponds surround the larger unnamed tarn. Gnarly trees surround this lakelet, and the mushy shores are churned into pudding by the elk. An overnight camp in these small meadows allows one to grasp the diminutive elements of beauty. Bantam flowers, pygmy trees, and dwarfish rills invite you to spend your time inspecting through a magnifying glass. In time, you feel the pattern of nature giving hints of its entropic qualities. The link between earth and sky becomes a part of a calming effect on body and soul. This effect is, in my mind, the elixir that keeps you coming back for more… Exit is easy: aim for the ridgecrest to the west. Bear right from the crest on a descending traverse northwesterly to avoid cliffs. Meet the road in about 1/3 mile.

The petite brooks sputter and splatter with foamy little waterfalls...

[Quark]

You didn't do this trip. You just wanted to say "Humptulips." Seriously, this is an excellent read. I enjoyed the hell out of it. You're worth your weight in gold.

[javman]

Very nice report Larry -- I read every word! And a lovely, serene image to top it off.

[Magellan]

An excellent read! Two trekking poles up

[Larry]

Quarkhelion, javman, and magellan: Thank you for the nice comments! I appreciate them very much. Larry

[Get Out and Go]

As Larry's Gramps said:

[Larry]

GO&G: Thanks for the comment! Yeah, when you are "enthusiastic" about those kinds of esoterica, then "anything goes"! Haha!