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Randy Cube Rat
Joined: 18 Dec 2001 Posts: 2910 | TRs | Pics Location: Near the Siamangs |
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Randy
Cube Rat
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Wed Aug 27, 2008 11:57 pm
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Don Brooks and I arrived at the White River TH with a half-assed plan to climb these three peaks over three days. We knew sort of what we wanted to do, but there are about 2000 ways to combine the three peaks, so we just went for it with the intent of staying flexible and deciding routes and all that as we went. An enjoyable way to implement a trip, but staying flexible meant carrying heavier climbing gear. Perhaps this defied logic with the long approach and all the trail miles, then again, Top 100 peakbagging has been known to defy logic at times.
Clark
We humped the White River Trail for a little over 4 miles until coming to the intersection with the trail heading to Boulder Pass. There’s no bridge over Boulder Creek, so find the tree crossing of your choice, at least three options are presented at the moment. The trail up to Boulder Pass went fine and somewhere around 5000’ we located the sheepherder’s trail heading off and to the left. After a little route assessment, we followed the old route around the basin below Boulder Pass and on up to another basin at 5600’.
Don works out of basin Booting higher. White River below.
Fearing boredom, we kept going albeit slowly in order to eat up time. Eventually, we ended up at a 6200’ pass along the S ridge of Point 8373’. From here, we worked the ridge ever higher until coming to yet another basin at around 6600’. Here we found water and a decent spot to put up a camp.
Don and first night camp Crap
Saturday morning, after packing up camp, we were moving at 0630. We spied a boot trail in the dirt not far from camp and followed that up to the notch granting access to the choss and snow fields bordering the SE slope of Clark. We dropped a couple hundred feet from the notch then ascended the upper most bench directly towards the summit. A steep-ish snow slope (crampons useful) and some easy scrambling stuck a fork in the ascent.
First views of Clark Clark gets closer Buck from Clark Luahna, Glacier from Clark
We hung out for 15 minutes then dropped a couple hundred feet down the SW ridge to a spot where we could drop down towards Point 7970’. We worked choss around the south side of Point 7970’ then made an ascending traverse towards Luahna. Not wanting to carry full packs over another peak, we opted to approach Luahna from the south in hopes of finding a relatively fast route to the summit. We dropped packs at 8000’ then worked up and to the left via class 2/3 slopes to the summit. We finally found a register.
Working to Luahna Don grabs for Luahna Clark from Luahna The scene on Luahna Butterfly Butte, Buck Mountain from Luahna
After grabbing packs, we kept moving NW towards the col immediately above the Pilz Glacier. However, not far from Luahna is a buttress that blocks easy access over to the col. By dropping to maybe 7900’, we were able to locate a ledge that worked well enough and is probably the only option short of a rappel or dropping another 500’. The rest of the way over and up to the col was straight forward.
The Ledge above and to the right of Don
Access to the Pilz Glacier was straight forward from the col. After working around the upper crevasse, we glissaded the steeper portion of the glacier down onto the flat. We walked around a few crevasses then down to the icy toe of the glacier.
Looking down the Pilz Glacier Looking up the Pilz Glacier. Luahna at left. Descending the toe of the Pilz
We worked over a subtle moraine, over to a great little tarn, then down onto Butterfly Butte. What an amazing place!
Tarn and Clark Clark from Butterfly Butte Luahna Peak from Butterfly Butte
From the butte, we descended down towards the Napeequa using several game trails to get us to where we needed to be. No bridges in this lonely valley, time to wade.
Crossing the Napeequa, Day 2
We found the Napeequa Valley trail not too far up from the creek then considered options. We decided we’d make a high camp along Louis Creek in one of the idyllic basins on the SW slopes of Buck. Descending from Butterfly Butte allowed us to eye the most effective route to a high camp by avoiding most of the alder choking the flanks of Louis Creek. We booted up about 600’ of weeds and ferns, through a bit of alder, and then finally more open terrain to a spectacular basin at about 6400’. A perfect spot to put a camp, this area is definitely in my top 5 coolest places in the Cascades. Some twilight recon high onto the slopes of Buck set us up nicely for an early morning ascent the next day. After 14 hours on the move, sleep came fast.
Ascending the fern slope Upper Louis Creek Cascade Second night camp Basin views of Clark
On Sunday, we were kicking up bits of meadow at 0630 hoping to make a quick round trip of Buck. From camp, we basically booted NE all the way to the summit. Awesome benches, waterfalls, and rock outcrops marked the way. The middle summit is considered the highest, but Buck is one of those where it can be hard to tell. We made the final ascent from right to left gaining the summit ridge maybe 100’ right of the true summit. After a bit of exposed scrambling along the ridge we were enjoying some early morning views alongside the summit cairn.
Clark, Luahna, Pilz Galcier, and Butterfly Butte Wrestling Buck Surveying the scene from Buck's summit Rainier from Buck Glacier Peak from ascent of Buck
We followed our ascent route back to camp with the round trip taking under 3 hours. The weather was still holding which was nice as I wasn’t looking forward to descending the weed slope in the rain. We headed back down to the confluence of the Napeequa and Louis Creek and picked up some climbing gear we had stashed the day before. Louis Creek was rippin’.
Louis Creek Falls
Another 1.5 miles of semi-brushy trail got us to the intersection with the Boulder Pass trail. Like I said, no bridges around here.
Crossing the Napeequa, Day 3
Our punishment for choosing to loop in Buck was a 2000’ climb up to Boulder Pass, but this is a well graded trail, so I can’t complain...at least too much.
Don at Boulder Pass
From the pass it was a 10 mile trip back to the car. Most of this was in the rain, in shorts, and with boots full of water. None of this really mattered as there were beers and dry clothes waiting at the car. Another awesome trip to a spectacular area.
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Dayhike Mike Bad MFKer
Joined: 02 Mar 2003 Posts: 10955 | TRs | Pics Location: Going to Tukwila |
OMG! Overnight, Randy!?
Strong work... Beautiful area and a nice combination of summits....
"There is only one basic human right, the right to do as you damn well please. And with it comes the only basic human duty, the duty to take the consequences." -P.J. O'Rourke
"Ignorance is natural. Stupidity takes commitment." -Solomon Short
"There is only one basic human right, the right to do as you damn well please. And with it comes the only basic human duty, the duty to take the consequences." -P.J. O'Rourke
"Ignorance is natural. Stupidity takes commitment." -Solomon Short
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peltoms Member
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 1760 | TRs | Pics Location: Worcester MA |
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peltoms
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Thu Aug 28, 2008 4:21 am
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Great shots from Buck Pass gorgeous country across the upper Napequa. The Napequa crossing looks like half and half.
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kleet meat tornado
Joined: 06 Feb 2002 Posts: 5303 | TRs | Pics Location: O no they dih ent |
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kleet
meat tornado
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Thu Aug 28, 2008 7:22 am
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Pffft. A real man would have knocked off those three in one day.
Nice work, guys. Some beautiful shots.
A fuxk, why do I not give one?
A fuxk, why do I not give one?
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Davidą Token Canadian
Joined: 25 Jul 2002 Posts: 3040 | TRs | Pics Location: The Great White North |
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Davidą
Token Canadian
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Thu Aug 28, 2008 7:34 am
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peltoms wrote: | The Napequa crossing looks like half and half. |
I suspect it feels more like an iced cappuccino. Butterfly Butte looks magical. I can't understand how you could actually leave such a wonderful spot to go play in the rocks.
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wildernessed viewbagger
Joined: 31 Oct 2004 Posts: 9275 | TRs | Pics Location: Wenatchee |
Awesome TR and Pics !
Living in the Anthropocene
Living in the Anthropocene
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Movenhike \m/..mmmmetal\m/
Joined: 16 Apr 2007 Posts: 642 | TRs | Pics Location: Leavenworth, WA |
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Movenhike
\m/..mmmmetal\m/
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Thu Aug 28, 2008 8:23 am
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Spectacular! way to nail it.
Now you got the marbles in my head rolling.
"Make it your Friend" -John Bull
"Make it your Friend" -John Bull
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don b Member
Joined: 22 Feb 2006 Posts: 369 | TRs | Pics
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don b
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Thu Aug 28, 2008 8:39 am
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Great trip and TR. I fully second Randy's comments about the Louis Creek basin. We looked down on the upper basin from above and thought we should be seeing Grizzlys and Caribou as it looked more like Alaska than Washington.
Another highlight of the trip was walking on the old sheep trail below Boulder Pass and seeing the remnants of dozens of cross trails throughout the basin. Those old trails will take a century to totally disappear after grazing.
Perhaps the final entertainment was watching Randy trying to empty water out of his boots. One lace was shot so he was afraid to take it off. The solution was to lay on his back with his leg straight up in the hopes that water would drain out. Didn't work so well.
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yukon222 Member
Joined: 12 Mar 2007 Posts: 1894 | TRs | Pics
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yukon222
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Thu Aug 28, 2008 8:44 am
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Extremely enticing area. Love your pic selections. I hope to see the area in person - it just looks amazing!
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Stefan Member
Joined: 17 Dec 2001 Posts: 5093 | TRs | Pics
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Stefan
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Thu Aug 28, 2008 9:09 am
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Louis Creek Basin is awesome. Really. Thanks for the trip report!
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RichP Member
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 5634 | TRs | Pics Location: here |
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RichP
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Thu Aug 28, 2008 9:41 am
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I like the combination of peaks. I think I'll copy your route if we get a good weather window. Perhaps next season?
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Roald Member
Joined: 06 Aug 2007 Posts: 367 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle |
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Roald
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Thu Aug 28, 2008 2:21 pm
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Wow, great TR and route! You guys are tearing it up out there.
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Sore Feet Member
Joined: 16 Dec 2001 Posts: 6303 | TRs | Pics Location: Out There, Somewhere |
Butterfly Butte just went WAAAY higher up on my list.
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Don Member
Joined: 25 Apr 2005 Posts: 2013 | TRs | Pics Location: Fairwood, WA |
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Don
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Thu Aug 28, 2008 4:01 pm
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raising3hikers Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2007 Posts: 2344 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, Wa |
Very nice TR I've been thinking about Clark Mtn. lately and now I definitely want to do it.
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