[EF]

I'm interested in opinions on the following question: How safe is it to go up Mount Stuart via the Cascadian Couloir with an ice axe and crampons available but without roping up? Thanks. Eric

[Dayhike Mike]

Fine and dandy. You'll want a helmet more than either ice axe or crampons. Know that there is an icefield at the very top, but that there's typically a way around this field without having to go onto the ice.

[gorp]

ditto, you won't need axe and crampons at all, take a helmet...also make sure not to do it in an electrical storm

[EF]

Thanks!

[mpaul_hansen]

RE: Mt Stuart -warning about electrical storms, lightning The previous warning should be well-heeded. See the J. Renner book about lightning. It describes the tragic death of Paul Brikoff in 1952 atop Mt Stuart. His partner, Bob Grant, barely survived. This incident is also documented in the AAC's Accidents in North American Mountaineering.

[Happy Trail Dog]

Mount Stuart via Cascadian Couloir has to be close to the most miserable route in the Cascades. And I've never even gone UP Cascadian Couloir, I've only come down! Figure it this way: the summit is at 9400ft, Ingalls Creek at 4900ft that leaves 4500ft for Cascadian Couloir. Cascadian Couloir for most of its length is a dusty gravel pit at a 20-30 degree angle. For 4500ft. First going up, and then coming down. That's 9000ft (combined) of 20-30 degree dusty gravel pit. It makes Aasgard Pass look like the PCT. If you really want to climb Mount Stuart, my humble advice is to take a really basic course in rock climbing, find a friend who climbs and take the West Ridge. First, 80% of the climb is 3rd and 4th class and the 5th class sections are relatively easy and short. Second, it's alpine in character without being scary. Third, you only have to come down the Cascadian Couloir.

[hikerjo]

Agreed, going up the Cascadian Couloir sucks. But I didn't find the W. Ridge any better. The W. Ridge like crossing 50 Cascadian Couloirs and there is only one short pitch of quality climbing. Those are the two worst routes on the mountain in my opinion. If your looking for quality rock, N. Ridge is the only way to go.

[Happy Trail Dog]

I agree that the North Ridge is a better route. If you make it the complete North Ridge from the true start at the bottom of the Ridge and include the Great Gendarme, you're really talking. But, you're talking about something else then the original poster had in mind. I found the West Ridge to be mostly satisfying and easy enough that even a novice climber could do it without risking life and limb. I think going from a non-technical route like Cascadian Couloir to the North Ridge is a bit of a stretch. The North Ridge requires reasonable climbing skills and a taste for exposure.

[hikerjo]

Yeah, but my point was that I would probably do the Cascadian instead of the W. Ridge. For some reason I just thought that route was a real drag. Just my opinion though.

[EF]

Thanks all. I very much appreciate the comments. I climbed Dragontail last week and found Aasgard Pass not that pleasant, so I'm reluctant to go up a route that's basically a longer version of Aasgard Pass. A friend recommended the west ridge, but I was hesitant because I have essentially no climbing skills. I will take a 2.5 hour course next week to introduce myself to it. Maybe the best thing for me to do is to postpone climbing Stuart until I have the requisite skills to go up a route that's not Aasgard Pass-like! Thanks again for the comments. Eric