[hikerjo]

Vesper Peak - North Face Grade III, mid 5th class I did this one a couple weeks ago but finally got the pictures. We started hiking up the Sunrise Mine trail around 8:00 am, headed to Headlee Pass. There were several stream crossings, the trail was very broken up. The final switchbacks leading to the pass were very short and steep. After making good time to the pass we followed a climber’s path toward the outlet of the lake and filled up our water bottles. The lake is 90% frozen over. We were on snow from here to the base of the climb. We climbed to the eastside of the peak and descended steep snow onto the Vesper glacier, then traversed to the base of the north face. There was only one place that we could get on the rock and it required us to climb into a moat. Because of this, we climbed the first four pitches off route up a steep loose gulley with long run outs. We lost lots of time on the first few pitches. We then topped out onto a scree field and scrambled to the slabs. From here it was four pitches of great climbing on unbroken slabs. The climbing was easy mid fifth class; though hard to protect. One pitch that I led ( full 50 meters), I was only able to place one piece of protection (not because it was easy, because that’s all I could place). We were the first ones to climb the route this year. Once we reached the summit we climbed down the backside. It was a memorable trip with lots of fun slab climbing. It was about 900 feet of climbing. The bugs were very bad. All day we had swarms of mosquitoes around our head. I got bit everywhere.

[Backpacker Joe]

Krazie Klimber Kraig! Nice report and pics Mr.. TB

[newdawnfades]

Glad you didn't crack your head open going up Headlee.

[Captain Trips]

Craig, How comfortable did you feel about the protection on the face slab. Most guides advise caution there. How did you find it and what did you use for Pro ?