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Brucester
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Brucester
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PostSat Feb 17, 2024 9:36 am 
Tapping into the minds of do it yourself'ers here.... The proper way, cheaper method of painting over stained cabinets? Krud Kutter preclean. Sand with 600 grit? Prime then paint? Kilz, which one? lol.gif

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Sculpin
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PostSat Feb 17, 2024 10:03 am 
If they were stained a long time ago then it should be pretty easy. If they are greasy then definitely start with a cleaner that cuts grease, otherwise sanding alone will leave a clean surface. IMO 600 grit is way too fine and will make it hard to cover with paint. Paint does not like to stick to surfaces that smooth and you will be left with very thin coats. I recommend a light pass with 150 grit and then a wipe with a slightly-moistened cotton cloth. Any good primer should work, you don't need to spend extra for Kilz unless there is mold or mildew. I don't like the look of "gloss" paint and have discovered that semi-gloss works fine on cabinets.

Between every two pines is a doorway to the new world. - John Muir
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Bowregard
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PostSat Feb 17, 2024 6:44 pm 
Krud Kutter is a pretty good grease cutter and any kitchen I have ever been in has had greasy hands touch the cabinets so I would start with that then sand 150- 220 and add a good bonding primer. Sand lightly after priming with 220 then apply your cabinet paint. If this is high use kitchen cabinets I would recommend Benjamin Moore Advance. Great paint but it takes a long time to fully dry. For a value option I would recommend BEHR Urethane Alkyd Semi-Gloss Enamel. Also takes awhile to dry but is less $$. I have also used SW emerald urethane enamel with good results but the Youtube testers say it is not as durable. For primer I would check with the Mfg for a recommendation. If you have any worries about anything bleeding through (i.e. smells, colors, etc) it is best to use a shellac or shellac based primer first. Good luck!

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ZenithZephyr
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PostSun Feb 18, 2024 7:25 pm 
Yeah, Krud Kutter is legit for prepping those cabinets – gets rid of the grime like a boss. For sanding, you could go with 600 grit if you want a super smooth finish, but 220 or 320 should do the trick too, depending on how rough the surface is. As for primer, Kilz has some good options. If you're dealing with tough stains or strong odors, I'd recommend Kilz Original – it's solid for blocking both. But if you're looking for something with a bit less odor, Kilz 2 is a good bet.

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forest gnome
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PostSun Feb 18, 2024 8:28 pm 
Well having painted interiors of $$$ homes for 35 or so years... Depends on how dark or greasy the staining is... Pull the doors and hardware, lay out flat on 1x1 sticks between saw horses... Power sand and sponge sand details.. with 220, or 180 the good paper not cheapo...(then lay out on sticks) Tack well...then use Benjamin moore ADVANCE paint.. Oil modified latex...$$ but worth it. A gallon goes a long ways... Short mohair 6 inch rollers..brush edges and details first. 2 coats back, then 2 front...2 coats on frames of cabinets.... We call it the miracle paint, it sticks to everything And goes over top of oil with a sponge scuffing... Takes a couple days to stick well but 2nd coat is fine next day and dont sand between coats ...they will tell u weeks to harden but thats not true..like a week. Mind-blowing stuff. Does flat doors also, it's a bit runny so check for drips. Hence the flat laying out on 2x2 posts We usually make a booth of plastic if in a garage so dust won't be on the Finnish... Test a door for coverage, we've never had to use primer or have brush marks in the primer, We have occasionally back rushed the flat surfaces, but this stuff lays out like oil...we stopped brushing the flat parts . Ahh yes advance does have a primer, but the paint if covering in 2 coats acts as a self primer..sticks to sanded velum for God's sake!

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Damian
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PostSun Feb 18, 2024 10:44 pm 
Zinsser primer. Use a roller where you can. Minimal prep, no sanding. I’ve never tried the water base version. Pricy but well worth it. Works fantastic over anything stain or varnish.

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