Previous :: Next Topic |
Author |
Message |
Gimpilator infinity/21M
Joined: 12 Oct 2006 Posts: 1684 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, WA |
Friday I drove out to the Mountain Loop Highway with Michael Lewis (Jimbopo) to give Bald Mountain another try. This is not to be confused with the other Bald Mountain of the MLH near cutthroat lakes. My first attempt on this peak was 2 years ago with Michael's brother Josh. That was the day preceding the famous Jolly Mountain disaster.
NE Ridge Climbing Ledges
Anyhow, Michael and I rode bicycles up the Deer Creek road until we encountered snow and then proceeded on foot. We climbed up the northeast ridge until we came to an exposed knife edge with a gendarme. I found the ledge system on the slabby south face and Michael took the lead. We scrambled around the gendarme and then back up to the crest where snow made exposed moves challenging.
I got to one spot where I was sitting on a soggy moss covered rock staring at an ugly snow obstacle. I could see the summit about 20 or 30 feet above but I knew that the next move was not safe. Michael asked if we should turn around and I agreed. After 20 minutes of downclimbing Michael found an old repel sling.
Saturday I met up with Colleen (cmurph), Craig (Redwic), and Maria to give Bald Eagle Mountain a go. This is not to be confused with Bald Eagle Peak which is slightly further south. We drove over Jacks Pass and then followed Quartz Creek on foot towards Curry Gap and traversed up towards the north ridge of Bald Eagle.
Kyes Kyes, Monte Cristo, Cadet
We encountered a large avalanche chute and climbed directly up to it's top. Near the ridge crest we had amazing views of Kyes Peak, Monte Cristo Peak and Cadet Peak. We followed the ridge south to a high point which was actually higher than the summit we were aiming for. This point is known as South Bowser Butte.
Redwic Sloan
Traveling further south from this point was not a safe option. We discussed backtracking and going down and around the highpoint but in the end, getting back to town before our favorite burrito joint closed was more important.
|
Back to top |
|
|
Magellan Brutally Handsome
Joined: 26 Jul 2006 Posts: 13117 | TRs | Pics Location: Inexorable descent |
|
Magellan
Brutally Handsome
|
Sun Jun 05, 2011 9:53 pm
|
|
|
That first one looks spicy! At least you got out and got that great view of Sloan.
|
Back to top |
|
|
Josh Journey a.k.a Josh Lewis
Joined: 01 Nov 2007 Posts: 4836 | TRs | Pics
|
Well at least you got out this weekend, homework slavery held me captive. I remember last weeks trip the snow conditions were certainly not ideal so this does not surprise me.
|
Back to top |
|
|
Redwic Unlisted Free Agent
Joined: 23 Feb 2009 Posts: 3292 | TRs | Pics Location: Going to the Prom(inence) |
|
Redwic
Unlisted Free Agent
|
Sun Jun 05, 2011 10:19 pm
|
|
|
To baldly go where no Gimp has gone before...
60 pounds lighter but not 60 points brighter.
60 pounds lighter but not 60 points brighter.
|
Back to top |
|
|
cmurph Member
Joined: 18 Feb 2006 Posts: 102 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle, WA |
|
cmurph
Member
|
Mon Jun 06, 2011 11:14 am
|
|
|
What a fun day out! I think we all have the exact same pictures but here are a few of mine...
Bald Eagle Mtn (7) Bald Eagle Mtn (3) Bald Eagle Mtn (10) Bald Eagle Mtn (13)
|
Back to top |
|
|
Schmidt Alti-Babe The Ice Queen
Joined: 11 Mar 2008 Posts: 606 | TRs | Pics Location: Buried by backlogged pictures |
The views towards Sloan in that area are quite nice! I haven't done much over there, but I see good reason to in the future.
The steep rock on your Bald trip made me a little queasy - eek!
|
Back to top |
|
|
Goats Know Gravity's Bitch
Joined: 29 Aug 2007 Posts: 194 | TRs | Pics
|
|
Goats Know
Gravity's Bitch
|
Mon Jun 06, 2011 3:20 pm
|
|
|
It doesn't look like you guys are tied in. Bold.
My friend and I climbed that route, and I remember being happy to be tied into a rope. Granted it was in the middle of January and raining cats and dogs. The climbing wasn't hard, and we did a running belay with a short rope, but you dare not slip. Even on a dry day I think I'd want a rope.
Nice Pics and report!
Here on this mountaintop...Woahoho...I got some wild, wild life - Talking Heads
Here on this mountaintop...Woahoho...I got some wild, wild life - Talking Heads
|
Back to top |
|
|
|