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Anne Elk
BrontosaurusTheorist
Joined: 07 Sep 2018
Posts: 2432 | TRs | Pics
Location: Seattle |
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Anne Elk
BrontosaurusTheorist
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 Fri Dec 01, 2023 2:38 pm |
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The North face of Mt. Jannu, alpine style: ...Solved by three Americans| Quote: | | ...three men, two ropes, one shared sleeping bag. |
"There are yahoos out there. It’s why we can’t have nice things." - Tom Mahood
 Waterman, olderthanIusedtobe, RichP  Comma, GaliWalker
"There are yahoos out there. It’s why we can’t have nice things." - Tom Mahood
Waterman, olderthanIusedtobe, RichP Comma, GaliWalker
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GaliWalker
Have camera will use
Joined: 10 Dec 2007
Posts: 4931 | TRs | Pics
Location: Pittsburgh |
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GaliWalker
Have camera will use
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Fri Dec 01, 2023 3:51 pm |
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Great article and some lovely pics. I read about this climb on Explorersweb a while back, but that was an early report that lacked some of the details in the article above.
https://explorersweb.com/jannu-north-face
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olderthanIusedtobe
Member
Joined: 05 Sep 2011
Posts: 7722 | TRs | Pics
Location: Shoreline |
Wow, that's stunning that 3 fairly much unheard of climbers plucked this last great problem. Well done.
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Bosterson
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Joined: 12 Sep 2019
Posts: 294 | TRs | Pics
Location: Portland |
As far as I can tell, there has been a "last great problem" of one kind or another in the Himalaya for around the last 50 years, so I'm sure we'll come up with another one after this. 
That said, I do remember reading about the Russian siege ascent of the north face of Jannu back in 2004 so it's good to see it finally get a proper alpine style ascent. Hopefully their fingers heal up without issue.
(On a grotesque side note, it's amazing to see that pic of their blackened finger tips and then think back to Annapurna in 1950 and the doctor snipping off Herzog's and Lachenal's various fingers and toes on the trek back to avoid gangrene. What a difference 73 years and a helicopter makes...
Also, wtf - 73 years??  )
Go! Take a gun! And a dog! Without a leash! Chop down a tree! Start a fire! Piss wherever you want! Build a cairn! A HUGE ONE!
BE A REBEL! YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE!
(-bootpathguy)
 Anne Elk
Go! Take a gun! And a dog! Without a leash! Chop down a tree! Start a fire! Piss wherever you want! Build a cairn! A HUGE ONE!
BE A REBEL! YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE!
(-bootpathguy)
Anne Elk
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RumiDude
Marmota olympus
Joined: 26 Jul 2009
Posts: 3597 | TRs | Pics
Location: Port Angeles |
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RumiDude
Marmota olympus
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Sat Dec 02, 2023 12:18 pm |
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Truly an amazing story!
Rumi
"This is my Indian summer ... I'm far more dangerous now, because I don't care at all."
"This is my Indian summer ... I'm far more dangerous now, because I don't care at all."
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Snowdog
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Joined: 21 Jul 2006
Posts: 1028 | TRs | Pics
Location: on (& off) the beaten path |
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Snowdog
Member
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Sun Dec 03, 2023 11:16 am |
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Great Article- thanks for sharing Anne, and making it available to open for non-subscribers to NYT.
'we don't have time for a shortcut'
Anne Elk
'we don't have time for a shortcut'
Anne Elk
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thunderhead
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Joined: 14 Oct 2015
Posts: 1521 | TRs | Pics
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Thats a seriously badass climb but to call a mountain most people have never heard of "the last great problem" when there are multiple unclimbed main faces and ridges on K2... seems a little silly.
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Bosterson
Member
Joined: 12 Sep 2019
Posts: 294 | TRs | Pics
Location: Portland |
| thunderhead wrote: | | but to call a mountain most people have never heard of "the last great problem" when there are multiple unclimbed main faces and ridges on K2... seems a little silly. |
"Last Great Problem" is a phrase used by alpinists to refer to difficult and well-known unclimbed objectives. There have been lots over the years - the N face of Jannu (which is a mountain alpinists are well aware of, if not the lay-public) in alpine style has been on that list surely since 2004 when the Russians sieged it. Prior to the Russian ascent, the face itself was a "Last Great Problem" since it was unclimbed - see Mark Synott's 2000 dispatch about it, prior to its first ascent 4 years later.
There have been more "Last Great Problems" thrown around than I can recall. It's a moving target - it seems like there has always been a "last great problem" since the 70s, once all the 8000ers had been climbed and people started directing their attention to routes rather than summits. A few I was able to dig up offhand:
- SW Face of Everest (Dougal Haston/Doug Scott 1975)
- W face of Gasherbrum IV (Kurtyka/Schauer, 1985)
- N face Jannu (Russians, 2004)
- Mazeno Ridge, Nanga Parbat (Sandy Allen/Rick Allen, 2012)
- K2 in winter (Nims, 2021)
- Everest's "Fantasy Ridge" (still unclimbed)
The Alps have their own "last great problems" as well. 
Go! Take a gun! And a dog! Without a leash! Chop down a tree! Start a fire! Piss wherever you want! Build a cairn! A HUGE ONE!
BE A REBEL! YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE!
(-bootpathguy)
thunderhead, GaliWalker
Go! Take a gun! And a dog! Without a leash! Chop down a tree! Start a fire! Piss wherever you want! Build a cairn! A HUGE ONE!
BE A REBEL! YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE!
(-bootpathguy)
thunderhead, GaliWalker
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GaliWalker
Have camera will use
Joined: 10 Dec 2007
Posts: 4931 | TRs | Pics
Location: Pittsburgh |
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GaliWalker
Have camera will use
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Mon Dec 04, 2023 6:44 am |
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I read the book (In some lost place, by Sandy Allan). Amazing read and accomplishment, but a very different challenge to Jannu. To spend so much time climbing above 7000m, all without supplemental oxygen, was a test of endurance and skill. And I agree with you, "the last great problem" can refer to a number of problems, all equally worthy of being lauded once resolved. Maybe we should call it "the last remaining great problem".
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rbuzby
Attention Surplus
Joined: 24 Feb 2009
Posts: 1012 | TRs | Pics
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rbuzby
Attention Surplus
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Mon Dec 04, 2023 12:19 pm |
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Is this a good hike for my Corgi?
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DadFly
Member
Joined: 02 Jul 2012
Posts: 402 | TRs | Pics
Location: Redmond |
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DadFly
Member
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Mon Dec 04, 2023 1:18 pm |
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| Anne Elk wrote: | | ...three men, two ropes, one shared sleeping bag. |
Strange. I didn't see this in the Partners forum.
"May you live in interesting times"
"May you live in interesting times"
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Pyrites
Member
Joined: 16 Sep 2014
Posts: 1884 | TRs | Pics
Location: South Sound |
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Pyrites
Member
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Mon Dec 04, 2023 2:09 pm |
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mon dieu
Keep Calm and Carry On?
Heck No.
Stay Excited and Get Outside!
Keep Calm and Carry On?
Heck No.
Stay Excited and Get Outside!
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thunderhead
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Joined: 14 Oct 2015
Posts: 1521 | TRs | Pics
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| Bosterson wrote: | | K2 in winter |
That was the last great problem in my mind. K2's summit in winter is the single point on earth that actually has "the worlds worst weather", at least by wind speed and wind chill. Not to mention its K2, and the winter atmosphere is a little thinner thus summit pressure is even lower than normal.
I think its a little sad that almost everything has been climbed, and so much of the exploring is over. Gotta start leaving earth for the next great problem. Olympus mons will probably go to a solar powered dune buggy later this century. Not doing that one without O2...
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Anne Elk
BrontosaurusTheorist
Joined: 07 Sep 2018
Posts: 2432 | TRs | Pics
Location: Seattle |
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Anne Elk
BrontosaurusTheorist
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Mon Dec 04, 2023 3:18 pm |
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| rbuzby wrote: | | Is this a good hike for my Corgi? |
NWH member Wolffie is probably the most knowledgeable about Corgi performance in winter and when climbing w/o oxygen above 1,000 meters. But corgis are probably more suited to free climbing. As Wolffie notes,
| Quote: | | "A corgi can slip neatly out of a chest harness in a vertical hang!" |
http://mycorgi.com/profile/JohnWolff92
"There are yahoos out there. It’s why we can’t have nice things." - Tom Mahood
 Comma, Chief Joseph
"There are yahoos out there. It’s why we can’t have nice things." - Tom Mahood
Comma, Chief Joseph
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