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Matt Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
Joined: 30 Jan 2007 Posts: 4308 | TRs | Pics Location: Shoreline |
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Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
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Sun Jun 03, 2018 11:48 pm
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Dates: May 26-28
Destination: Holliway Mtn via Swamp Creek, Methow Pass, Methow River & Nugget Lakes
Party: Matt, Carla (Dicey)
Short Version
Day 1: Ascended Swamp Creek to 7700 feet on Hardy, then back down to a fine view camp at 7000 feet above Methow Pass.
Day 2: Visit Holliway by descending PCT down the Methow River to 4600 feet, then back up via Nugget Lakes to Holliway's summit. A long round trip, but a great view of Golden Horn's steep north side.
Day 3: After enjoying one more night at our high camp, reluctantly hike back down to the car.
Holliway GPS Track Holliway viewed from Hardy Holliway viewed from Azurite in 2008, about the only location where you clearly see Holliway in relation to its neighbors, and see the steep north faces of Holliway and Golden Horn
Quotes of the Trip:
"What r3h can do in 1 day and Sjolseth can do in 2 days, we can do in 3 days."
Holliway is rarely visited, because you pretty much have to go all the way around Golden Horn to get to it. We made it worthwhile by spending two nights at a beautiful high camp above Methow Pass, plus the striking view of Golden Horn's north face from Holliway.
Holliway summit view looking east Holliway summit view looking south Holliway summit view looking west
"I don't want to go back to civilization. I want to stay here."
The difficulty of such a fine camp is that you just want to remain there and keep soaking in the glorious views, thus our reluctance to leave. But the memories remain. Plus lots of photos.
Golden Horn & Tower from camp Golden Horn & Tower by moonlight Golden Horn & Tower at sunrise Golden Horn & Tower at sunset
Saturday
Swamp Creek to Hardy to Methow Pass Camp
We parked at the large turnout by Swamp Creek, walked across the highway bridge to the west side of the creek, and then just angled uphill to Hardy. The terrain was open forest lower down, a bit of brush at the edges of the old burn, and then snow higher up. To avoid traversing the steep gullies on Hardy's southeast side, we continued all the way up to 7800 feet, then followed Hardy's east ridge back down to the wide crest at 6900 feet, where we camped.
Looking up Hardy from the parking lot Carla ascending through the burn, with the parking area still visible below Looking up the shoulder of Hardy Turning the corner to descend The slope we descended from Hardy to camp (taken later in the evening)
Swamp Creek to Camp: 2.8 miles, 3810 gain, 860 loss, 6 hours.
Evening at Camp
We had a very comfortable camp, with big rocks for seats, flat snow for the tents, and expansive views to peaks stands high above the valleys below. We relaxed for a leisurely dinner, many cups of tea, wine, & whiskey, and a nap before sunset.
Late in the evening, one other party arrived in the area and set up camp around the corner from us. They were planning to climb Tower the next day.
Surprise visitors, with their destination in the background.
Western skies had become cloudy, but our area stayed clear enough to wash colors across the peaks as the sun set and moon rose.
Golden light on Cutthroat & Porcupine, 9:23pm Afterglow above Cutthroat & Porcupine, 9:47pm
The sun faded out into the western clouds, but cast a few brief bits of alpenglow.
Alpenglow on Silver Star Alpenglow on Cutthroat Last red cloud above Black Peak Last gray cloud above Golden Horn
After midnight, I got back out of bed to briefly take a few moonlight photos.
Moonlit Golden Horn Moonlit Hardy
Sunday
Morning at Camp
Sunrise brought glorious pastel skies above a sea of clouds.
Colors above and clouds below Hardy Golden Horn & Tower Cutthroat & Porcupine Black Peak before dawn Black Peak alpenglow Corteo alpenglow Sunrise burning through the corner of Tower.
Methow Pass Camp to Holliway (6:20am – 2:10pm)
The route to Holliway consists of four parts:
1. Descend the PCT from Methow Pass to Wills Camp at 4600 feet.
2. Ascend alongside Golden Creek to Nugget Lakes at 5880 feet.
3. Follow a snow gully uphill 2000 feet, bypassing a small waterfall lower down.
4. Scramble up loose rock to the crest then left on solid rock to the summit.
First we walked downhill, into the rising sun, on a ridge above the clouds, to Methow Pass. Carla liked the undulating cornice remnants so much that she deliberately walked along the crest of each one. Turning the corner at Methow Pass also brought dramatic views of Hardy's steep east face.
Heading out from camp Walking into the light Steep side of Hardy More steepness of Hardy
Then we walked downhill for several more miles along the PCT, which was snow-covered until near the end, but fairly easy to follow by looking for trail-like paths through the woods. It was all easy travel in mostly open forest. I neglected to take more than one photo the whole way.
At Wills Camp, we turned uphill and followed the righthand side of Golden Creek up to Nugget Lakes. It was still mostly open with occasional brush, though the upper parts would be very brushy when the snow melts out. We stayed a bit too close to the creek near a constriction at 5100 feet going up, but found easier travel by staying farther away going down. Right before Nugget Lakes is a slab waterfall, below which we crossed the creek on a flat area.
Walking along the snow-covered PCT Slab waterfall below Nugget Lakes
We enjoyed a sunny break at Upper Nugget Lakes under the looming north walls of Golden Horn, then headed up the main gully toward Holliway's summit. About 300 feet up, there are a couple rock steps and a waterfall blocking the gully. To avoid those, we started out on the left from Nugget's outlet stream, crossed the gully below the waterfall, then angled back into the gully from the right, where there was easy packed dirt for access. After that it was just kicking steps uphill on good snow into expanding views.
Route up the Holliway gully Carla ascending (good thing we didn't need to use that other gully in the background) uphill further up
At the top of the snow, we wandered up and down a bit trying to find the least loose way up the rock. In the end, we probably should have just tucked in right next to the summit block on the left. Once we got there, it was easy rock scrambling to the top.
summit is atop the outcrop on the left Last corner onto easier terrain at the top
Holliway Summit (2:10 – 2:50pm)
Holliway's summit cairn was perched on a pointy rock, but nearby was a remarkably comfortable flat area to hang out and enjoy the views.
Me near the summit Carla on the break area ladybug proof of summit
I already posted the labeled summit panoramas at the top of the report, but here are some more of the peaks.
Holliway summit cairn, with Azurite & Ballard The Needles, looking much less pointy from this angle Silver Star & Snagtooth Ridge Tower Golden Horn Logan, Easy Pass, & Ragged Ridge Ragged Ridge Picket Range
Check out the contrast between the north and south faces of Golden Horn:
South side of Golden Horn (from Methow Pass camp) North side of Golden Horn (from Holliway)
Some Interesting Notes From The Holliway Summit Registers
There are two registers, the original film can register from 1981 and Fay Pullen's register from 2010.
old register, page 1 old register, page 2 new register
Since the first ascenders, Cliff Lawson & Dan Sjolseth, were Trailblazers, they probably stocked fish in Nugget Lakes.
The first canine ascent was Grant Myers dog, Luna, in 2005.
The registers contain father and son ascents 35 years apart, by Dan Sjolseth in 1981 and Tom Sjolseth in 2016.
There are only 10 recorded visits since 1981. However, there was at least one other visit, by Stefan Feller in 2008, who was unable to find the register.
Half the recorded visits are solo trips.
After the first couple ascents, most visits are probably from peak-baggers working on the Top 200 list, since Holliway is #192 on that list.
Holliway to Methow Camp (2:50-8:45pm)
The summit was so comfortable that I'd gladly have stayed for a nap, but Carla reminded me that we'd have to move along if we wanted to get back out of the woods to Methow Pass for sunset. So off we went, down the loose rocks, down the snow gully, down alongside the creek, and up the valley back to Methow Pass.
the route back down (with a piece of Carla in the corner) Shadows descending toward Nugget Lakes (I like the upside-down tree shadows)
We made it to Methow Pass right at sunset. Carla hurried on up to camp, while I slowed down to rest and take photos. Back at camp after 14.5 hours, we were very glad to sit on our comfortable rocks and eat a leisurely dinner as the stars came out.
Shadows back at Methow Pass for the moonrise and sunset Hiking up toward Hardy Looking back toward Tower A bit of alpenglow over Porcupine Stars coming out over Golden Horn and Tower
Holliway Round Trip: 13.8 miles, 5730 gain and loss, 14:30 hours
Monday
Monday morning came up with clouds covering our camp and me still tired, so we slept in luxuriously late till 9am. As we packed up, we saw the Tower climbers just turning the corner on Hardy to exit, so never knew if they made their summit or not. In turn we turned the corner circa 7550 feet, but were glad we didn't try to traverse any lower on the loose dirt and rocks. Going down was easy on the snow, though I stayed on the ridge too long and almost missed the turn downslope toward Swamp Creek. As we neared the highway, the roar of passing cars made us reluctant to leave the woods and return to the busyness of civilization.
My tent spreading its wings to fly away. Weekend tea bag collection, 6 for me, 2 for Carla You can see the skiers about to turn the corner just below the x mark. Heading back downslope, with the burn and the parking area visible 3500 feet below. This passage under the highway does not seem safe for pedestrians.
Exit hike: 2.8 miles, 680 gain, 3630 loss, 3:40 hours.
Trip total: 19.6 miles, 10220 gain.
“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
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RichP Member
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 5634 | TRs | Pics Location: here |
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RichP
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Mon Jun 04, 2018 7:33 am
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Fantastic trip and report, Matt and Dicey. Those 14-hour days seem to stick in the mind for a long time.
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Stefan Member
Joined: 17 Dec 2001 Posts: 5093 | TRs | Pics
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Stefan
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Mon Jun 04, 2018 9:32 am
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Always wonderful on the pictures!
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iron Member
Joined: 10 Aug 2008 Posts: 6392 | TRs | Pics Location: southeast kootenays |
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iron
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Mon Jun 04, 2018 9:54 am
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raising3hikers Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2007 Posts: 2344 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, Wa |
Stefan wrote: | Always wonderful on the pictures! |
I agree
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chandlerhaberlack chandler haberlack
Joined: 29 May 2018 Posts: 26 | TRs | Pics Location: Monroe |
strong effort and great report. that looked like a lot of fun!
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GaliWalker Have camera will use
Joined: 10 Dec 2007 Posts: 4931 | TRs | Pics Location: Pittsburgh |
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GaliWalker
Have camera will use
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Tue Jun 05, 2018 10:38 am
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Matt wrote: | Turning the corner to descend Black Peak alpenglow |
Spectacular!
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BarbE Member
Joined: 28 Jul 2006 Posts: 1153 | TRs | Pics
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BarbE
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Tue Jun 05, 2018 12:53 pm
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Outstanding mountain scenery and photos!
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Distel32 Member
Joined: 03 Jun 2014 Posts: 961 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, WA |
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Distel32
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Tue Jun 05, 2018 1:45 pm
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Brushbuffalo Member
Joined: 17 Sep 2015 Posts: 1887 | TRs | Pics Location: there earlier, here now, somewhere later... Bellingham in between |
Matt wrote: | Turning the corner to descend |
I suppose you were like me in seeing this late Saturday halo and thought " oh oh, here comes an unpredicted weather change."
Turned out to be just a stray spell of cirrostratus producing that halo. False alarm.
We were not far away on East Crater.
Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
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wildernessed viewbagger
Joined: 31 Oct 2004 Posts: 9275 | TRs | Pics Location: Wenatchee |
Living in the Anthropocene
Living in the Anthropocene
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mbravenboer Member
Joined: 20 Oct 2013 Posts: 1422 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle |
Spectacular!
I've been reading up on the east-side lately for sunny options, but the various unknown creek crossings are a bit discouraging. This looks like a nice one without creek complications .
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