[GaliWalker]

With 2007 almost over, I began going over my hikes from this year and trying to figure out my favorite one; I came up with a dayhike to the Colorado River, in the Grand Canyon - mainly because it was so different to NW hiking. I also realized that I never wrote a trip report for this one, so here goes (apologies if this is hopelessly out of date and not quite a NW hike, but I really loved this one)... July 20th, 2007: Grand Canyon Route notes: - My biggest concern for this hike was the heat; I decided that I would carry 3 liters of water, supplemented with 3 additional liters of Gatorade. - I planned a loop hike: I would go down the steeper but shorter South Kaibab trail and come up via the Bright Angel trail. Water availability on the Bright Angel trail also meant that it was a logical return option over the bone-dry South Kaibab trail. Early Friday morning, my wife dropped me off near the South Kaibab trailhead; the last half mile was only accessible by shuttle, so I walked that. Dire warnings on the trailhead sign promised death and destruction if one tried to hike down and up in a day. (Actually, I took these quite seriously and hoped that I was well prepared.) By 4:50am, I was on my way down into the canyon. The weather was pleasant, the trail was easily graded and quite wide so the going was quick. Soft early morning light cast a dreamy glow on pink sandstone cliffs which lined one end of the trail. The other end of the trail dropped shear for hundreds of feet. Walking Cedar Ridge, leading to O’Neil Butte was a delight. As I skirted O’Neil Butte the sun finally appeared above the horizon. While the sunrise was quite stunning, I was also acutely aware that the rising sun would only raise the temperature.

Just before sun-up on South Kaibab Trail. Grand Canyon, July 20, 2007.

O'Neil Butte from Cedar Ridge - hiking along the South Kaibab Trail, heading into the depths... Pre-dawn, Grand Canyon, July 20, 2007.

Sunrise on South Kaibab Trail. Grand Canyon, July 20, 2007.

South Kaibab Trail. Grand Canyon, July 20, 2007.

I dropped lower and lower, passing 2 other hikers who had made an even earlier start than I had. Behind me, on the cliffs above, I could see a mule train on its way down; I did not want to be passed and then be stuck behind it. The mule train soon passed the other 2 hikers, and neck and neck we raced down to the Colorado River. I would build a healthy lead, only to see it disappear as I stopped for photos…

Hikers on South Kaibab Trail near sunrise. Grand Canyon, July 20, 2007.

Tonto Platform area on South Kaibab Trail. Grand Canyon, July 20, 2007.

Tonto Platform area on South Kaibab Trail. Grand Canyon, July 20, 2007.

Descent into the inner Grand Canyon on the South Kaibab Trail. Grand Canyon, July 20, 2007.

At 7:30am, I was at the Colorado River, which I crossed over the Black Bridge. 15min later I was at the lowest point in the hike, Phantom Ranch, located near the mouth of the Bright Angel Creek canyon, which joins the inner Grand Canyon from the north rim. I had a short break here and enjoyed the lush green surroundings and the coolness. Too soon, however, I was hiking again.

Black Bridge on the Colorado River. Grand Canyon, July 20, 2007.

Bright Angel Creek, near Phantom Ranch. Grand Canyon, July 20, 2007.

As I re-crossed the Colorado River, now over the Silver Bridge, and began to make my way along the River Trail towards the Bright Angel trail junction I began to encounter an increasingly larger number of other hikers. The day was quite hot now but the climbing had not yet started. Soon, I was at the Bright Angel trail junction. The initial portion of this trail (while exposed to the sun) was easy going alongside Pipe Creek. In no time at all though, it began to climb up through the Vishnu Formation in a series of switchbacks known as “The Devil’s Corkscrew”. (With names like this and “Skeleton Point”, I wonder why the Park Service bothers with all the other warnings…)

Colorado River from Silver Bridge. Grand Canyon, July 20, 2007.

Black Bridge on the Colorado River. Grand Canyon, July 20, 2007.

Deep in the Grand Canyon. Start of the 110 degree heat ascent out of the Grand Canyon via the Bright Angel Trail. Grand Canyon, July 20, 2007.

As the sun beat down on me, I began to wilt. I could not figure out if the tiredness was due to the heat or due to the mileage. The going was slow, as I sought out any shade I could find. Somewhere along the way I figured out that frequent stops in the shade to cool down were all I needed; going fast only raised the body temperature and made me more exhausted. After this discovery things were OK and I was back to enjoying the hike.

The hot, hot, hot ascent out of the Grand Canyon via the Bright Angel Trail. Grand Canyon, July 20, 2007.

A welcome section was the green Garden Creek fed Indian Garden area. Slot canyons, shady trees and flowering cactus patches rose up around me as I walked beside Garden Creek. The Indian Garden area had drinking water available, so I finished the rest of my water and re-filled. I also had lunch here.

Indian Garden area on the Bright Angel Trail. Grand Canyon, July 20, 2007.

Refreshed, I began the final slog up and out of the canyon. A little after 1:00pm, I was at the rim and lolled around waiting to be picked up.

The Battleship from Bright Angel trail. Grand Canyon, July 20, 2007.

Heart-shaped rock formation overlooking the Grand Canyon as I neared the end of my hike out of the depths via the Bright Angel Trail. Grand Canyon, July 20, 2007.

Stats: - Distance: 17mi - Elevation loss/gain: 4,810ft down; 4,410ft up - Hiking time: 8hrs, 20min.

[puzzlr]

Enjoyed your TR a lot. Southern Utah and Northern Arizona is my second favorite part of the country for hiking (PNW is first, of course). You were really bookin', given the heat. I acquired a new respect for hot desert hiking when I tackled a 2000' foot hike of Castle Rock with the same equipment and water I use here. That was good planning on your part to bring lots of water and pick the route the way you did.

[MadCapLaughs]

your pics are really beautiful. Never had any desire to go to the Grand Canyon; until now, that is. That is one killer day. I would probably need three to do that route.

[GaliWalker]

This was our first trip to the Grand Canyon. I was really psyched before we went...it ended up exceeding all my expectations. We did a side trip to Bryce Canyon as well; also stunning but not quite up to Grand Canyon standards.

Bryce Canyon hoodoos. Bryce Canyon, July 22, 2007.

Bryce Canyon rim trail from just below Bryce Point. Bryce Canyon, July 22, 2007.

Thor's hammar. Bryce Canyon, July 22, 2007.

[Jack's Mom]

I've hiked the Canyon many times; reading your report and looking at the familiar scenery just made me want to apply for a permit and do it again.

[Stones]

Wow! down and up in the middle of summer. That's impressive. I hiked down and up many years ago as part of a college field trip during Presidents Day weekend. A little snow at the top and pleasant at the bottom. We stayed two nights at the Phantom Ranch. I was waffling on majors. The first time I visited the canyon and did that hike sealed it for me, geology.