[Schmidt Altitude]

Dates: Friday, August 22 to Sunday, August 24 Crew: Yana, dicey, Schmidt Alti-Babe, Schmidt Alti-Dude (whippets stayed with Yet and Rufus - thanks for putting up with them ) Summits (in the order we climbed them): Glee Peak 7160' (Point 7200+ in the Beckey Guide), West McMillan Spire 8000', The Roost 6705' Lakes: Terror Lake Total Elevation Gain: 13,394 feet When dicey invited us on this trip, she promoted West McMillan Spire as the easiest of the Pickets to climb . We are talking about the Pickets, right? That mass of impenetrable crags that we saw NE of us from our Bacon/Blum traverse last year? The mountain range with peaks named Fury, Terror, and the Chopping Block ! Isn't saying the easiest of the Pickets like saying the safest of the war zones or the mildest of the fiery habanera sauces? Still, we were eager to give the area a chance and willingly agreed. Day 1: The hike in and Glee Peak After Picking up Yana we all headed up I-5 north. The sunrise was so spectacular and distracting that we missed the Darrington exit and decided to drive through Mount Vernon instead. We made it the ranger station in Marblemount a little after it opened to find a line. We took turns using the last plumbed bathrooms we'd see for awhile as one of us saved our spot in line. In due time, we received our permit to camp two nights in the "Terror Basin Zone" . Dicey asked the ranger if the ravens (ca-caw!) were still attacking windshield wipers at the Goodell Creek campground and he responded that their raven (ca-caw!) activity book didn't have any reports on such activity yet this year (apparently the ravens (ca-caw!) that live near the campground are know for destroying windshield wipers for fun when they get bored).

Sunrise from I-5 (Photo Alti-Babe)

We parked in a little turn off just before the Goodell Creek campground (dicey said there was weirdos at the campground we wanted to avoid). She asked if we wanted to wrap up our windshield wipers but we decided to chance it. Before setting out, we synchronized our altimeters and were surprised to see they were reading only about 600'. Since camp was about 6400' this meant we had little bit of elevation to gain today! Plus, dicey informed us that it would be best if we all wore our rain gear for the the first 3.5 miles since the trail was overgrown and it had been raining for the last few days (rain gear + full pack + uphill = fun ).

Up the soggy "trail"

We thrashed our way in the wet brush up to where our side "trail" met up with the one coming one from the campground and headed up the trail established in the middle of an abandoned logging road. The trail is in great shape in some places, washed out and rough in others, and very overgrown in many. After about 3.5 miles and only about 900 feet of gain, we came to the junction where the trail leaves the abandoned road and really starts to gain elevation. This section of the trail reminded us of the Green Ridge trail off the Middle Fork Snoqualmie road in steepness and terrain. It climbs from 1700' at the road to a basin at about 5000' in just a few miles. Though not an officially maintained trail, it is easy enough to follow with the occasional downed tree or two to negotiate around/over/under. Every time we'd come to the next obstacle we'd blame it on the mischievous ravens (ca-caw!) trying to make us turn back.

One of numerous creek crossings

Those darn ravens can't dampen her spirits!

About half way up this section, we were passed by a dayhiking couple who were coming up to scout a possible climb of Mount Degenhardt. At about 4800' the trail traverses under some rock bands. The first is Aerosmith, the next is AC/DC, and the third is Led Zepplin. There was another, insignificant band named Abba in there somewhere that wouldn't even be worth mentioning if it wasn't so annoying. Next, we entered the vegetated gullies where Eric Hoffman noted in his 2002 trip report, "where the vegetation is more that just pretty". Unfortunately a large tree had fallen in such a way as to partially block the main route up the gully (ca-caw!) forcing us to take a less optimal route up.

Sure, it gets sunny for the steep part!

Where the vegetation is more than just pretty

Finally we reached "Happy Land" were the trail levels out, the terrain opens up, and the views are breathtaking. We stopped to have lunch and then left the dayhikers behind as headed out to hike the final 1400' to camp. We crossed two rocky stream gullies and then headed upstream along the left (north) side of the second for about 200' (this is very important - do NOT go straight after crossing the second streambed!) When we were under "The Amphitheater" (a large cave in the hillside across from us) we found the trail that leads north towards the Terror Basin. We followed the trail until we arrived at our camp destination on the heather slopes above the pass leading down to the basin.

Boulder negotiations

Head upstream at the large cairn

The amphitheater

The powder puff pixies leaving Dude behind

Yana and the Chopping Block

A Babe in her natural environment

After refueling and rehydrating we decided that the 6007' we'd climbed so far this day wasn't enough and headed up another 936' to Glee Peak, the highpoint SE of Azure Lake. From camp we traveled NE until we came upon a large snow basin and traversed around it until we were under the summit. From there it was an easy scramble to the top. We signed in the very soggy register (ca-caw! it badly need to be replaced) and enjoyed the views before heading back down to set up camp, eat dinner, and get some shut eye. As we went to bed it looked like Canadia may have been sending some clouds our way (darn Canadians, they probably sent the ravens (ca-caw!) too!) so we covered our stuff and hoped for the best.

Dicey's ready for her fill of Glee!

Snow traverse to Glee

Scrambling up to Glee

Babe on Glee (Davis and Roost behind)

Yana on Glee (with Luna)

Time to head back and make dinner

Day 1 Stats: 6943' gain, 932' loss, 7:47 trailhead to camp, 1:51 round trip from camp to Glee including time on summit. Day 2: The West McMillan Spire The rain held off and we awoke to a fine day. After breakfast, the first order of business was descending a steep hard-snow covered slope from the pass by our camp into the Terror Basin. While the girls were looking down the slope trying to visualize the safest route, Dude suggested we climb down the moat until there was an access onto the snow where it was considerably less steep. "All we have to do is crawl through that snow tunnel (ca-caw!) and the rest is cake!" he said. The girls rolled their eyes and gave him that "stupid boy" look but when they checked it out, it really was the best way to go (see, boys can pick good routes - sometimes).

Yana and Dicey look for a way down from the pass

Babe takes the moat tunnel

Back onto the snow

After descending in the moat and accessing the snowfield in a much better spot, we reached Terror Basin - a beautiful area of rock, snow, flowers, and streams. We picked a line that would take us on a gradual descending traverse to the outlet steam south of the new Terror Lake which has formed from the melting of the snowfield located just below (SE) the McMillan Spires (maps will show it as a snowfield of course). The terrain was uneven (ca-caw!) and there were quite a few small stream crossings (ca-caw!), but we made it in good time.

Descending into the Terror Basin

Fun with shadows

Traversing the Terror Basin towards the southern Pickets

After crossing the outlet stream we headed downstream for a little ways to avoid climbing up cliffs and then started up broken slabs towards the Terror Glacier. The rock colors in this area are quite interesting - as Yana put it, it looks like different flavors of ice cream are melting down the rocks. After quite a bit of uphill climbing we ran out of rock and it was time for glacier travel. We climbed up the less steep lower section in just our boots and then paused on a small rock island to put on crampons for the upper section. There was a few inches of fresh snow on top of hard ice so we spent a lot of effort kicking in steps as we zigzagged up, up and up a snow finger toward a col between Inspiration Peak and the West Spire. The angle was so steep in the upper section that our knees were brushing the snow in front of us as we were taking our steps .

Slab walking

We've ran out of rock - it's glacier time!

Glacier Babe

Finally, just below the col we left the ice, stashed our crampons, and started climbing up the choss covered slabs towards the summit. On the way up, we missed the "established" route a little to the right so we made our own way up. The only problem (ca-caw!) we encountered was the need to crawl on hands and knees under a large boulder along a couple foot wide ledge. Eventually the rocks became larger and less loose and soon we were close to the summit.

Scrambling up loose slabs

The crawl method

We've left the glacier far behind

The top of the West McMillan Spire is about twenty feet wide and with sheer drops of thousands of feet to Azure basin to the east and the McMillan Glacier basin to the west. We climbed our way over boulders towards the high point trying not to look down too much. The views from the top were as spectacular as expected and we spent about a half an hour or so taking pictures and enjoying the scenery. We read through the register and signed ourselves in (two highpoints: one guy made it to the summit in 5:39 from the car but said he puked twice along the way, another two guys signed in for their friend Steve whom they left back at camp with the quote "how could shrimp go bad?" ca-caw! ).

Yana, you take a picture of me on the summit as I take a picture of you

Touching the top

Dicey and Yana at the end of the world

As we made our way back to the col we were able to follow the slightly worn path of other visitors that we missed on the way up. As we were crossing the choss covered slabs only a hundred feet or so from glacier our access point Yana, who was last in line, yelled "Rock"! We all ducked for cover as a slide of basketball sized rocks came tumbling down from the slopes high above us. The randomly falling rocks freaked us all out and as we took the time to calm down, we swore we could hear the faint calls of ravens carried on the wind (ca-caw!).

Nobody said we had to climb down too!

Can you please turn off the wind machine?

Babe in front of Inspiration, Pyramid, Degenhardt and Terror

Once we were back on the snow we had to face-in downclimb the steepest section before turning around and plunge stepping/boot skiing the rest. Babe fell once but executed a self arrest after falling only a few feet (good job ) and Dude eventually said screw it and glissaded even though he had shorts on. We made it back to slabs and then descended back down to Terror Creek.

Downclimbing steep snow

Taking a rest back on the rocks

Waterfall under Inspiration Peak

Once we crossed the creek, camp looked impossibly far away but we keep putting one foot in front of the other and made it back to the snowfield under the pass below camp. We kicked steps up the snow and entered the moat in the same spot as we exited earlier in the day. Then it was back up the moat, under the snow tunnel (why were there a bunch of mosquitos in the snow tunnel? ca-caw!) and back to camp.

How did camp get so far away?

More steep snow

Babe at camp after climbing the West McMillan Spire

Day 2 Stats: Camp to W.M.S. 2917' gain, 1276' loss, 5:41; W.M.S. to Camp 1270' gain, 2887' loss, 4:23; Total 4187' gain, 4163' loss, 10:04 Day 3: The Roost and the hike out A little before the alarm was set to wake us up, we awoke to the pitter-patter of rain hitting our bivies. The weather forecast had predicted rain this day so we expected the worst but luckily the shower was brief and we awoke to dark and moody yet dry skies. After breakfast and packing up, we headed down the hillside from camp to gain the trail. When we made it back to the streambed below the Amphitheater we dropped packs and mulled our options. It would be nice to bag another peak but not in bad weather. The rain had held off so far but the sky was still dark and cloudy. Just as we decided to go for it another brief shower rolled through (ca-caw!) but we had already determined that we were going to visit The Roost - home of the Canadian ravens (ca-caw!).

Down to the trail

Some bad weather may be heading our way

We headed up the streambed east until we reached the col between the ridges that lead north to Glee or south to The Roost. From this spot we had a fantastic view of both The Roost and the west face of Davis Peak plus the ridge that run between them (which had us thinking of future possibilities). Of course, the terrain isn't as flat as it looks on the maps but it was relatively easy walking up the ridge towards The Roost (except for the occasional brief wind driven shower ca-caw!). We passed many tarns along the way and took advantage of numerous picture taking opportunities. We were reminded of the scene from Monty Python's Quest for The Holy Grail where Sir Lancelot attacks the wedding since every time we crested another highpoint on the ridge the summit never seemed to be any closer and then suddenly we were just below the summit . We made the top about 1:30 from where we left our packs. On the summit we ate the last of our food and tried to stay warm despite the freezing wind.

Below the summit of The Roost

Roost summit shot

This is what we think of the weather! :P

The hike down was as easy as the ascent and we were soon putting our way to heavy packs back on (how come the packs are heavier now despite all the food being gone? ca-caw!). The sky kept getting darker and darker as the day progressed, and we were worried about having to descend the steep forested parts in the rain. Luckily the rain held off and we made our way back to the vegetated gully. Dude was elected to try and remove the log blocking the path. He managed to push the log off to the side without falling down the hillside himself (ca-caw!) and continued on our way. As we descended in the forest we kept waiting for the sky to open up and dump on us but it never happened.

Babe with Triumph and Despair behind

Down the slippery heather

Dicey says goodbye to "Happy Land"

The steep part begins again

Veggie belays are good!

Babe directs Yana to the best hand holds

Once we were on the road the expected deluge commenced. Since we were expecting to be rained on the fact that it held off until we were on the easiest last few miles was a blessing. We were quickly and completely soaked as we made our way back to the vehicle as fast as possible. All the wet gear and bodies gave the Explorer a distinct odor (ca-caw!) as we drove to Marblemount for dinner and then headed back home, but we were well satisfied with our first experience in the Pickets.

The soggy puff pixies

A very wet trailhead shot

Yeah, no more hiking in the rain!

Day 3 Stats: 2264' gain, 7858' loss, 9:12 (sorry, we didn't stop/start the log for individual events this day)

[Schmidt Alti-Babe]

DAY 1:

The vegetated gully ahead

Zooming in on the McMillan Spires

Entering "Happy Land"

Dude chills during our lunch stop

Dicey leads the way

The Chopping Block with Blum and Baker behind

So close, yet so far

The summit of Glee Peak ahead

Degenhardt, Pyramid, Inspiration, and McMillan Spires from Glee Peak

Dude tries to sign the wet register

The Terror Glacier from Glee Peak

Yana checks out the views

Yana on Glee

The ice axe yearns to be on the Terror Glacier

Sundog

Yana and Dicey race ahead

The clouds point the way to our goal

Almost back to camp

Rest up, we have a big day tomorrow

Full set here. DAY 2:

Dude leads the way down the moat

Dude checks out the views from the Terror Basin

The McMillan Spires look a little closer

Ca-caw!

It's all up from here on out!

Water falling through the slabs

Dude scouts the route

Yana ponders the Terror Glacier

Glacier climbing

On the rock island to put on crampons

Yana's in control!

Inpiration Peak from the Inpiration-McMillan Col

Dude on the choss covered slabs

Dude easily holds the world at bay

Yana climbing the West McMillan Spire

Inspiration, Pyramid, Degenhardt, and Terror from West McMillan Spire

Dude and Yana on the way up West McMillan Spire

The mountain's starting to get narrow at the top

Mount Fury from West McMillan Spire

Baker and Shuksan from West McMillan Spire

Azure Lake observed from West McMillan Spire

Degenhardt and Terror

Down the slab of McMillan

Down the loose stuff

Dude glissading down the Terror Glacier

Terror Glacier

Mount Inspiration looms above us

Waterfall in the slabs

The lake below the Spires

Recrossing the Terror Basin

Terror Basin views

Trust me, I know a shortcut

We're back at camp!!

Dude tries to even out his tan

Camp views

Cloudy skies off to the west

Full set here. DAY 3:

Dude leaving the Spires behind

Dicey at Glee-Roost col

Dude turns to take a picture as he leads the way to the Roost

Oh no, Dude's being eaten by the rocks!

Triumph from Roost Ridge

Just below the Roost summit

Yana and Dicey arrive at the Roost

Yana checks out the views

Eating the last of our supplies

Dude on the summit of The Roost

Striped rocks on Roost Ridge

Have fun with the wind

Triumph Peak under increasingly cloudy skies

Yana and Dicey lead the way back to our packs

Descending off the Roost

Dude conquers the offending log!

Full set here.

[Schmidt Alti-Dude]

And now for the panoramic perspective: Day 1

Triumph and Despair on the way up

Views from lunch rock

Almost to camp

Views from camp

Dicey on Glee

Sunset views from camp

Day 2

Crossing the Terror Basin

On the Terror Glacier

Babe on the melted ice cream slabs

Terror Lake under the McMillan Spires

Day 3

Hiking out

Hiking out under cloudy skies

Davis Peak and The Roost from the col

Views west and north from the summit of the Roost

Views east and south from the summit of the Roost

[peltoms]

Mama mia there you go again, glad you did not meet your waterloo. Great effort obviously you tudes are in fine late season form. The slabs are gorgeous, what should the lake below the spires be named?

[then]

Great Pictures! Last weekend I was sitting above Berdeen lake looking across the valley at Triump and Despair wondering what was on the other side, should have know it would be crawling with northwest hikers! We only had to gain 4200' to get to happy land on our side. Good job and Awsome report guys! I'm definanty going to use your trip report as a referance for next year.

[pimaCanyon]

You dudes and babes sure know how to have a good time! Great report, amazing scenery, awesome pix! Oh, and way to maximize the weather window, getting the hard work done before the rain started. So the crows left your wipers alone so you could use them on the long, wet drive home?

[Yana]

I can't believe we had almost 8000' of elevation loss the last day. Oh, and incidentally - the windshield wipers did NOT get eaten by ravens (CA-CAAAAAW), which was rather fortunate as it was pouring rain all the way back to Seattle. What a great trip. Dicey sure knows how to pick 'em! Here are some of my pics.

Descending the snow finger

Storm's a brewing

Morning light on Despair and Blum

More cloud things

Departing the Roost

pause to pose

climbing near the edge

climbing nearer the edge

west, east, and little mac spires

[AttemPT]

Love the picture banquet. Thanks

[huron]

What an adventure!

[Guiran]

Great trip! That area is one of my favorites. Glad to see your wiper blades fared better than ours did a few years ago. We returned (very tired) to find the wipers torn off and the car covered in raven poo (ca-caw).

[DIYSteve]

[Movenhike]

The rock outcropping in Yana's 3rd to last picture "climbing near the edge" bears a striking resemblance to a raven's head and beak (ca-caw!)

[MikeBeebe]

A++++++ trip report, would read again! Also, are you sure those are Ravens and not Crows? I didn't think we had Ravens in Washington.

[goats gone wild]

[ActionBetty]

climbing near the edge

This looks like you are climbing up a giant rock "Caaaw Caaaw" head Nice job