[Stefan]

Went out with Greg and did Chimney Rock and Overcoat. Gorgeous weather. Friday after half day of work, went up Pete Lake trail. Bugs sucked up to Pete Lake. Then took the PCT going north. Here is some detail to get to our campsite basin which is not the standard way people go for Chimney Rock: 1)Come to the first switchback in the PCT and leave the trail after about 160-170 paces 2)You will encounter some vine maple for little ways 3)The forest then becomes pretty good 4)Then look for a well traveled game path which stays about 100 meters away on the east side of the stream 5)The game path ends about 100 meters before a open area that was formerly burned.

6)Go slightly up and through this former burned area. 7)Head slightly downhill once you see the meadows on the west side of the stream—you will then have to go through some brush. 8)Cross stream onto west side of stream at about 3500 feet. From here you stay mostly on the west side of the stream to the basin at 4600. You will have to cross one time due to a rock wall.

The basin we got to has plenty of spots for bivying on heather amongst the boulders. It took us 4 hours to get here. Bugs were not so prevelant because of the constant breeze going through the area. Next morning we woke up and ascending mostly easily to the U Gap notch west of the summit. An interesting thing happened along the way. As we were traversing the glacier below the east face a deer runs past me going eastward. What the? Where did he come from? This deer seemed like it was on caffeine. As we ascended up the U Gap, we could see the deer tracks coming down the snow from this notch. WEIRD!

The snow up to the U Gap has as this time opened up many cracks and we left the snow and ascended class three rock to the notch. This route is amazing. You look up the face and see nothing. But there really are ledges in there. Here is the basic gist for all you folk 1)Drop slightly from the U Gap notch heading east to get into another gully to amazing ledge corner #1. Minor class 3.

2)Ascend up and to the right from ledge corner #1 and follow a ledge system going east first at level, and then descending to white platformy rocks. You are now going across a face of a mountain. From here you can also see the frightfully impossible Main Peak. Class 4 move at first, then low class 3.

3)From the white rocks go mostly up and right almost to the West Peak/Main Peak notch. Stiff class 3 with maybe a splash of class 4 thrown in.

4)Just below the main West Peak/Main Peak notch you will then notice another notch to climbers right by some pinnacle that was to climbers right as you ascended the white rocks. Ascend to this notch, and then descend this notch to the other side. Class 3.

5)Ascend this next gully (where you will now be on the Main Peak) to the amazing ledge corner #2. Bivy here. Class 3.

6)Traverse a short ways to start of first roped pitch. Greg lead this pitch and it was off width and is rated at 5.3. Mostly up and then to the right.

7)Second pitch people say it is class 4 slabby in a rock depression. True. I don’t like slabs and I lead it. This pitch goes mainly up and then to the right to the base of the final pitch. 8)Pitch 3 is the best section to climb—and Greg lead this one. Good holds in here and is the longest pitch. I think it was easier than the first pitch due to the solid rock and more fun—and I really enjoyed doing this one. Maybe 5.2 -- this leads to a short feet away from the summit. 5.5 hours to here.

We stayed for just over an hour enjoying not a single cloud in the sky.

Retreat was exactly the same route. We saw an odd thing on the way down from the U-Gap. Somebody was paraponting right above us. Huh? From where did they start? That was a long way!

Isn't he cute in his element?

Tomorrow: Overcoat Peak

[Martin S]

Awesome pictures and trip report! You guys are animals. I can't wait for the Overcoat Peak chapter tomorrow. As for that paraglider you saw, it might have been this guy. He took off from Rampart Ridge, thought about trying to get to Stevens Pass but turned around somewhere near Chimney Rock. Watch the video in that link - he appears to be pretty close to where you guys were.

[Tom_Sjolseth]

Excellent report! And quite timely, I might add, as I plan to get in there soon.

[cartman]

Way to go, and thanks for the details. We were watching you two traverse around the base of Overcoat, then up the gully Sun morning from the top of Summit Chief. Long trip for two days.

[Happy Trail Dog]

Warthogs? deer? paraponters? ... oh my.

[Gimpilator]

Very impressive! Thanks for all the beta. I would love love love to climb this peak some day.

[Backpacker Joe]

Hey Stefan, any shots over towards the Summit Cheif lakes? I need to get in there for a lake survey and it sure would be nice to know whether they are snow free? Thanks.

[Stefan]

[Stefan]

[Backpacker Joe]

Thank you.

[cartman]

Summit Chief Lake is melted out, but getting to it isn't.

[iron]

nice stefan. thanks for the details!

[silence]

awesome climbs you guys .. great reporting!! cool seeing the area fm the air too ..

[Jim Dockery]

I've gotta get in to do this one too. Thanks for the report.